In 1935, Jean Patou launched the perfume "Normandie," composed by Henri Almeras, in honor of the maiden voyage of the SS Normandie, a symbol of luxury liner travel at its zenith. This period epitomized transatlantic voyages as glamorous affairs, characterized by opulence, sophistication, and a sense of adventure. The SS Normandie itself was renowned for its lavish interiors, meticulously designed by Sue et Mare, who also crafted settings for Jean Patou's boutiques and perfume presentations.
The choice of the name "Normandie" was deliberate, evoking images of grandeur, elegance, and French chicness. It conjured visions of sleek ocean liners cutting through the waves, luxury accommodations, and the excitement of international travel. For the affluent travelers of the time, and those who appreciated luxury and refinement, "Normandie" symbolized the epitome of sophistication.
This perfume would have been most popular in cosmopolitan centers like Paris and New York, hubs frequented by the elite travelers who could afford first-class tickets on the SS Normandie. Its name alone would evoke feelings of nostalgia for the golden age of ocean travel, making it a coveted accessory for those who cherished elegance and adventure.
In a gesture of exclusivity, Jean Patou commissioned exquisite perfume bottles presented in miniature silver-plated pewter replicas of the SS Normandie, cast by a famous metal worker. The 15ml glass parfum bottle was held in its main smoke-stack and featured a screw-off cap. These bottles were bestowed upon each lady who held a first-class ticket on the maiden voyage of the ship, enhancing the perfume's allure as a luxury item associated with the pinnacle of ocean travel.
The perfume "Normandie," with its association to the SS Normandie's maiden voyage and its luxurious presentation, embodied not just a fragrance, but an experience of elegance and prestige, perfectly suited for special occasions and glamorous evenings in the cosmopolitan settings of its time.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral amber (oriental) fragrance for women with warm, woodsy notes.
- Top notes: aldehydes, neroli, ylang ylang, bergamot, fruits
- Middle notes: orange blossom, orris root, rose, Grasse jasmine, carnation, styrax, opoponax
- Base notes: styrax, Mysore sandalwood, Bourbon vetiver, oakmoss, vanilla, musk, ambergris, Virginia cedarwood, benzoin, tonka bean, labdanum, patchouli
Scent Profile:
Embarking on the maiden voyage of the SS Normandie, you step aboard a floating palace of elegance and luxury. As you ascend the gangway, the grandeur of the ship's interiors, designed by Sue et Mare, immediately captivates your senses. The air is filled with anticipation and the faint hum of excitement from fellow passengers.
Entering the grand salon, your eyes are drawn to the lavish Art Deco décor, with polished wood panels and gleaming metal accents. The scent of fresh flowers and polished surfaces mingles with the bracing sea air, creating a heady, invigorating aroma. The top notes of the perfume "Normandie" come alive in this moment: the sharp, clean scent of aldehydes, the citrusy freshness of bergamot, and the sweet, slightly bitter essence of neroli. These scents blend with the exotic, creamy notes of ylang-ylang, transporting you to a world of refined elegance.
As you explore the ship, the sounds of a grand piano and lively conversations fill the air, echoing through the opulent corridors. You wander into the dining room, where the aroma of gourmet cuisine tantalizes your senses. The fragrance of ripe fruits wafts past, a blend of sweetness and tanginess that hints at the culinary delights awaiting you. This fruity bouquet complements the floral heart of the "Normandie" perfume, inviting you to indulge in the sensory pleasures of your journey.
In the heart of the ship, the lush, floral notes of the perfume become more pronounced. The intoxicating scent of orange blossom weaves through the air, mingling with the powdery, earthy aroma of orris root. The romantic, velvety fragrance of rose and the sweet, heady scent of Grasse jasmine envelop you, creating an aura of timeless beauty. These notes are enhanced by the spicy, clove-like aroma of carnation and the resinous, balsamic richness of styrax and opoponax.
As evening falls, you find yourself on the promenade deck, watching the sun dip below the horizon. The base notes of the perfume emerge, grounding you in a warm, woodsy embrace. The deep, creamy scent of Mysore sandalwood and the smoky, earthy aroma of Bourbon vetiver blend with the green, slightly damp fragrance of oakmoss. Vanilla adds a touch of sweetness, while musk and ambergris lend an animalic, sensual depth to the air.
The sturdy, resinous scent of Virginia cedarwood and the sweet, balsamic richness of benzoin provide a comforting, familiar backdrop. The warmth of tonka bean and the leathery, slightly smoky scent of labdanum add complexity, while the earthy, spicy aroma of patchouli anchors the fragrance, creating a harmonious balance of notes that mirrors the luxurious experience of the SS Normandie itself.
As the night progresses, you retire to your elegantly appointed cabin, the plush fabrics and polished surfaces providing tactile comfort. The perfume "Normandie," presented in its exquisite silver-plated pewter replica of the ship, stands on your vanity, a reminder of the extraordinary journey you are on. Each time you apply the fragrance, the intricate blend of notes transports you back to this moment of opulence, adventure, and timeless elegance.
Ship Bottles:
After the triumphant maiden voyage of the SS Normandie, the exquisite perfume that bore its name began a new chapter. Following the journey's end, "Normandie" by Jean Patou transitioned from an exclusive gift for first-class passengers to a widely available fragrance, enchanting women around the world. Starting in 1936, the perfume was offered in both its original parfum form and a new variant, parfum-cologne, Patou's unique interpretation of a long-lasting eau de cologne.
The distribution of "Normandie" expanded into high-end boutiques and select department stores, bringing the luxurious scent to a broader audience. The perfume retained its elegant and intricate composition, allowing more women to experience the opulence of its floral amber (oriental) fragrance. The rich blend of top notes—aldehydes, neroli, ylang-ylang, bergamot, and fruits—continued to captivate, delivering a burst of freshness and sophistication.
The middle notes, a harmonious bouquet of orange blossom, orris root, rose, Grasse jasmine, carnation, styrax, and opoponax, maintained the perfume's heart of romantic, timeless beauty. These notes evoked the elegance and grandeur of the SS Normandie, resonating with women who appreciated the finer things in life. The base notes, with their warm, woodsy undertones of styrax, Mysore sandalwood, Bourbon vetiver, oakmoss, vanilla, musk, ambergris, Virginia cedarwood, benzoin, tonka bean, labdanum, and patchouli, provided a lasting, sensual finish that lingered on the skin.
The introduction of the parfum-cologne variant allowed for a more versatile use of the fragrance. Patou's version of a long-lasting eau de cologne offered a lighter, yet enduring scent that could be worn throughout the day. This innovation catered to the modern woman's lifestyle, providing a touch of luxury and elegance in various settings, from casual daytime affairs to sophisticated evening events.
The packaging of "Normandie" remained a testament to its luxurious roots. The parfum was still presented in the iconic silver-plated pewter replica of the SS Normandie, while the parfum-cologne came in elegant glass bottles, each designed to reflect the sophistication and artistry synonymous with Jean Patou. These bottles became coveted items on vanity tables, symbolizing a connection to the golden age of ocean travel and the timeless allure of the SS Normandie.
As "Normandie" continued to enchant women across the globe, it solidified its place as a classic fragrance, celebrated for its complexity and elegance. The wider distribution allowed more individuals to experience the magic of this iconic scent, ensuring that the legacy of the SS Normandie and the luxurious era it represented lived on through the exquisite notes of the perfume.
The New Yorker, 1935:
Harper's Bazaar, 1935:
In the photo above, a remarkable perfume bottle from the SS Normandie's maiden voyage is displayed, capturing the elegance and craftsmanship of the era. This exquisite piece, issued by Jean Patou, is crafted in pewter and meticulously shaped like the iconic SS Normandie. Inscribed with 'Normandie/Jean Patou/Paris-France,' the bottle features a glass vessel and stopper inset at the center, ingeniously concealed within the ship's main smoke-stack. Measuring 7 x 3¼ inches (17.8 x 8.9 cm), this collectible item embodies the luxurious spirit of the 1930s. The photo, taken by Christie's Auction, highlights the intricate details and artistry of this unique perfume bottle, a true testament to the opulence and sophistication associated with Jean Patou and the legendary SS Normandie.
"Tell of the glories of that great big steamship, but Patou's newest perfume, christened Normandie, will be forever memorable. ... For $20 you can buy a bottle of Normandie sunk in a decorative metal model of the new queen of the seas, in regulation bottles; in smaller sizes, it is $5."
Harper's Bazaar, 1935:
"Normandy" perfume is as breathtaking as its namesake. The perfume bottle is set in a metal model of the French Line masterpiece."
Crystal Parfum Bottle:
The crystal bottle used for the parfum and the Parfum-Cologne, for "Normandie" by Jean Patou epitomizes the Art Deco style that flourished during the 1930s. This bottle is a masterpiece of design, characterized by its sleek, geometric lines and elegant symmetry. Crafted from high-quality crystal, the bottle catches the light, creating a dazzling display of reflections and refractions. The clean, sharp edges and the precise cut of the crystal reflect the sophistication and modernity of the Art Deco movement. The bottle's stopper is equally refined, designed to fit seamlessly and add to the overall aesthetic appeal. This exquisite crystal bottle not only holds the luxurious fragrance within but also serves as a statement piece, embodying the glamour and artistic innovation of the era.
Fate of the Fragrance:
"Normandie" by Jean Patou, a luxurious floral amber (oriental) fragrance, enjoyed a brief yet illustrious presence in the world of perfumery. Launched in 1935 to celebrate the maiden voyage of the SS Normandie, this exquisite scent quickly captured the hearts of those who cherished elegance and sophistication. However, its journey came to an abrupt end in 1940, when the perfume was discontinued.
The discontinuation of "Normandie" in 1940 marked the end of an era. The outbreak of World War II had a profound impact on many industries, including luxury goods and perfumery. Resources became scarce, and the focus shifted towards wartime necessities. The once-bustling world of high fashion and opulent travel gave way to a period of austerity and uncertainty. Jean Patou, like many other luxury brands, had to adapt to the changing times, leading to the decision to cease production of "Normandie."
Despite its relatively short run, "Normandie" left a lasting legacy. Those who were fortunate enough to experience the fragrance cherished it as a symbol of a bygone era of glamour and sophistication. The intricate blend of notes—from the bright aldehydes and neroli to the rich Mysore sandalwood and ambergris—remained etched in the memories of its admirers. The perfume's elegant crystal bottle and the iconic pewter ship presentation became treasured collectibles, a testament to the enduring allure of Jean Patou's creation.
The discontinuation of "Normandie" also underscored the fragility of luxury in the face of global turmoil. As the world grappled with the challenges of war, the perfume industry had to navigate a complex landscape, balancing creativity and survival. "Normandie" by Jean Patou, with its brief but impactful presence, serves as a poignant reminder of a time when the world paused to savor the finer things in life, even amidst the uncertainty of the future.
1984 Reformulation & Relaunch:
In 1984, the iconic perfume "Normandie" by Jean Patou experienced a renaissance. Renowned perfumer Jean Kerléo took on the task of reformulating this beloved fragrance, ensuring that its legacy would continue to enchant new generations. This reformulation was part of the exclusive "Ma Collection," a curated selection of reissued scents from Patou's catalog of discontinued perfumes, alongside some new editions.
"Ma Collection" aimed to revive the masterpieces that had once defined the elegance and sophistication of Jean Patou's brand. Kerléo's reformulation of "Normandie" was a meticulous process, honoring the original composition while introducing subtle refinements to enhance its timeless appeal. The collection itself was a tribute to Patou's enduring influence in the world of perfumery, showcasing the house's dedication to preserving its rich heritage.
The 1984 reissue of "Normandie" retained the fragrance's characteristic floral amber (oriental) profile, with its intricate blend of top, middle, and base notes. The fresh and invigorating top notes of aldehydes, neroli, ylang-ylang, bergamot, and fruits remained, leading into the lush heart of orange blossom, orris root, rose, Grasse jasmine, carnation, styrax, and opoponax. The warm, woodsy base notes of styrax, Mysore sandalwood, Bourbon vetiver, oakmoss, vanilla, musk, ambergris, Virginia cedarwood, benzoin, tonka bean, labdanum, and patchouli continued to provide a sensual and lasting finish.
The relaunch of "Normandie" as part of "Ma Collection" was not just a revival of a fragrance but a reimagining of a moment in time. It brought back memories of the grandeur of the SS Normandie's maiden voyage and the golden age of ocean travel, now accessible to a contemporary audience. The reissued perfume was presented in elegantly designed bottles that reflected the sophistication of the original, offering a touch of nostalgia combined with modern refinement.
"Ma Collection" became a symbol of Jean Patou's commitment to preserving the artistry and excellence of his earlier creations. The reformulated "Normandie" stood as a testament to the enduring appeal of Patou's fragrances, bridging the past and present, and continuing to captivate those who sought the luxury and elegance embodied in each meticulously crafted bottle.
This version has also been discontinued.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an ambery floral chypre oriental fragrance for women.
- Top notes: fruits, neroli and ylang-ylang
- Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, orris root, jasmine, vetiver, styrax and carnation
- Base notes: amber, benzoin, oakmoss, cedar, woods, vanilla and musk
Scent Profile:
As the top notes gently fade, the heart of the fragrance reveals itself with an enchanting blend of middle notes. The intoxicating scent of orange blossom and the romantic, velvety fragrance of rose dominate this phase, enveloping the wearer in a rich floral embrace. The powdery, slightly earthy aroma of orris root and the sweet, heady scent of jasmine add depth and complexity. Vetiver introduces a green, woody facet, while the spicy, clove-like aroma of carnation and the resinous, balsamic richness of styrax enhance the fragrance's exotic allure.
The base notes anchor "Normandie" with a warm, sensual foundation. Amber provides a soft, resinous glow that blends harmoniously with the sweet, vanilla-like scent of benzoin. The earthy, slightly damp aroma of oakmoss adds a classic chypre touch, while the woody notes of cedar and other woods contribute a robust, grounding element. Vanilla imparts a creamy sweetness, and musk adds an animalic, sensual undertone, ensuring the fragrance lingers beautifully on the skin.
Together, these elements create a scent that is both opulent and multifaceted, reflecting the luxurious spirit of its namesake. "Normandie" by Jean Patou captures the essence of a bygone era of elegance and sophistication, offering a fragrance experience that is both nostalgic and timeless. This ambery floral chypre oriental perfume is a tribute to the grandeur of the SS Normandie and the golden age of ocean travel, providing a sensory journey that resonates with the sophistication and allure of the 1930s.
Product Line:
Available as:
- 1 oz Parfum
- 2.5 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
- 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
- 0.20 oz Eau d Toilette Splash Mini Bottle
Limited Editions:
In 1985, Parfums Jean Patou honored the legacy of the SS Normandie and its maiden voyage by launching a replica of the original 1935 pewter ship presentation. This initiative was spearheaded by Samantha Drake, the spokesperson for the fragrance firm, who announced the creation of a limited edition of 1,000 ships, each meticulously hand-numbered on the base. These replicas were crafted to mirror the original design, with each ship holding 15ml of "Normandie" parfum within its smokestack, a nostalgic nod to the grandeur of the past.
The ship presentations were cast from stainless steel, differing from the original pewter but maintaining the same level of elegance and attention to detail. Each ship bore a paper label reading "Normandie/Jean Patou/Paris," highlighting its authentic connection to the iconic fragrance and its illustrious history. Retailing at $500 each, these commemorative editions were not just perfume bottles but cherished collectibles, celebrating the 50th anniversary of the SS Normandie's maiden voyage in 1935.
The following year, in 1986, Parfums Jean Patou released a second round of these limited edition presentations, this time reducing the quantity to just 500 copies. This further heightened their exclusivity and appeal among collectors and enthusiasts of fine fragrances. Each ship presentation from this round was also hand-numbered, ensuring that every piece remained unique and treasured.
These commemorative re-editions served as a bridge between the past and present, allowing a new generation to experience the elegance and luxury associated with Jean Patou and the SS Normandie. The ship presentation bottles, with their blend of historical significance and artistic craftsmanship, continued to evoke the spirit of the golden age of ocean travel and the timeless allure of "Normandie" parfum.
Fate of the Fragrance:
"Normandie" by Jean Patou was discontinued in the early 1990s, marking the end of an era for this exquisite fragrance. Despite its discontinuation, the allure of "Normandie" persists, particularly among collectors and enthusiasts of fine perfumes. The ship presentations, both the original 1935 pewter souvenir edition and the later stainless steel replicas from 1985 and 1986, have become highly coveted items.
The original 1935 pewter ship presentations are the most sought after, prized for their historical significance and the craftsmanship that embodies the elegance of the era. These original pieces are not just perfume bottles but artifacts of luxury, symbolizing the opulence and grandeur of the SS Normandie and its maiden voyage. Collectors cherish these exclusive souvenir items for their rarity and the nostalgic connection they provide to a bygone time of sophistication and glamour.
The later editions, though made from stainless steel and produced in larger quantities, also hold significant value. The 1985 edition, with its limited run of 1,000 hand-numbered ships, and the even scarcer 1986 edition of just 500, are treasured for their faithful homage to the original design and the continuing legacy of Jean Patou's artistry. These pieces remain a testament to the enduring appeal of "Normandie" and the timeless elegance of the SS Normandie itself.
As the years pass, these ship presentations continue to appreciate in value and desirability. They serve as a tangible connection to the legacy of Jean Patou and the luxurious world of 1930s ocean travel, capturing the imagination of collectors and perfume aficionados alike.
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