In 1925, the world was basking in the opulence and exuberance of the Roaring Twenties. This decade was marked by significant cultural and social transformations, particularly in urban centers. The aftermath of World War I brought about a desire for joy, freedom, and indulgence. The era saw the rise of jazz music, flapper fashion, and a general sense of breaking away from the rigid norms of the past. Women were experiencing newfound freedoms, both socially and economically, allowing them to explore identities that were previously restricted. The spirit of the times was one of celebration, spontaneity, and a fervent pursuit of pleasure and romance.
Jean Patou's introduction of three fruit-floral fragrances—Amour Amour, Que Sais-Je?, and Adieu Sagesse—was a groundbreaking concept that aimed to encapsulate the stages of love. Each fragrance was designed to evoke different emotional states and experiences associated with love, creating a narrative journey through scent.
Amour Amour (Love, Love): This fragrance represented the initial, passionate stage of love. It was designed to capture the intoxicating and exhilarating feelings of infatuation and desire. The scent likely featured bright, vibrant top notes and lush, blooming florals to evoke the sensation of new, blossoming love.
Que Sais-Je? (What Do I Know?): This fragrance symbolized the contemplative and questioning phase of love. It reflected the moments of uncertainty and introspection that often accompany deeper emotional connections. The scent would have had a more complex composition, perhaps with a mix of fruits and florals layered with subtle, introspective undertones, evoking the complexity and nuances of a developing relationship.
Adieu Sagesse (Goodbye Caution/Farewell Wisdom): Representing the stage where caution is abandoned, "Adieu Sagesse" embodied the fearless and uninhibited embrace of love. This fragrance was designed to be bold and seductive, capturing the essence of passionate, unreserved affection. It likely combined rich, opulent floral notes with warm, inviting undertones, creating a scent that was both alluring and memorable.
Jean Patou’s choice of the name "Adieu Sagesse" was likely influenced by the cultural climate of the 1920s, which celebrated liberation and self-expression. By naming the perfume "Adieu Sagesse," Patou encapsulated the essence of the era—a bold departure from traditional values in favor of embracing the passions and pleasures of life. The name suggests a fragrance that embodies the spirit of adventure and the willingness to take risks in the realm of love and romance.
"Adieu Sagesse" is an excellent name for a perfume because it conveys a sense of intrigue, allure, and emotional depth. It suggests a fragrance that is bold and evocative, one that encourages the wearer to step out of their comfort zone and embrace the excitement of the unknown. The name is poetic and resonates with the idea of living life fully and passionately, making it an appealing choice for a perfume.
The phrase "Adieu Sagesse" evokes images of moonlit rendezvous, secret trysts, and passionate embraces. It conjures emotions of excitement, freedom, and the thrill of the unknown. There is a sense of rebellion against the mundane and a celebration of the intensity of romantic love. The name suggests a journey into uncharted territories of the heart, where wisdom and caution are left behind in favor of pure, unbridled emotion.
"Adieu Sagesse" is a unique name for a perfume, distinguished by its poetic and evocative nature. It stands out in its ability to convey a narrative and emotional depth that resonates with those seeking more than just a fragrance but an experience. The phrase can be interpreted as an invitation to embrace life's passions fully and without hesitation, making it a compelling choice for a perfume.
As with other perfumers of the 1920s, such as Coty, Jean Patou designed his fragrances to complement the unique characteristics of different hair colors, a trend popular at the time. "Amour Amour" was recommended for blondes, capturing the vibrant and lighthearted essence often associated with blonde hair. "Que Sais-Je?" was suggested for brunettes, reflecting the deeper, more contemplative nature attributed to brunettes. "Adieu Sagesse" was recommended for redheaded women, aligning with the fiery, passionate, and bold personality traits often attributed to redheads. These recommendations were prominently featured in vintage advertisements, guiding women to select a fragrance that matched both their romantic stage and their natural beauty. This approach personalized the fragrance experience, enhancing the allure and sophistication of wearing Patou's creations.
The target audience for "Adieu Sagesse" would have been the modern, liberated women of the 1920s—those who were enjoying newfound freedoms and exploring their independence. These women would likely respond to the perfume with enthusiasm, seeing it as a symbol of their willingness to pursue their desires and embrace the excitement of love without restraint. The fragrance would appeal to those unafraid to take risks and seek thrilling experiences in their romantic lives.
Life, 1933:
"Moment Supreme" is the best- named and most successful of Patou scents. Barbas thought up its name, as he did also the following happy triumvirate: "Que Sais-je ?" "Amour- Amour" and "Adieu Sagesse."
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a chypre floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, neroli, narcissus, bergamot, lily-of-the-valley and black currant
- Middle notes: rose, carnation, Grasse jasmine, apple blossom, cinnamon and tuberose
- Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, labdanum, Tyrolean oakmoss, patchouli, Bourbon vetiver, opoponax, musk, ambergris, benzoin, balm of gilead and civet
Scent Profile:
In the vibrant city of Paris, where the Seine river glistened under the moonlit sky and the air buzzed with the chatter of cafes and the soft melodies of distant jazz, a young woman named Celeste stood on the balcony of her apartment, overlooking the Eiffel Tower. It was a night of possibilities, a night where caution was left behind, and she wore "Adieu Sagesse," the perfume that perfectly encapsulated her mood.
As she uncorked the bottle, the first notes of aldehydes filled the air with a sharp, effervescent scent that sparkled like champagne bubbles. The clean, almost metallic brightness was soon softened by the sweet and citrusy aroma of neroli, its white blossoms whispering secrets of Mediterranean gardens. Celeste felt as though she was standing in an orange grove, the fragrant petals brushing against her skin, as delicate as silk.
Next, she detected the intoxicating richness of narcissus. Its heady floral scent was earthy and green, with a touch of wildness, like a field of daffodils swaying in a spring breeze. The familiar, comforting smell of bergamot followed, citrusy and slightly bitter, bringing a sense of clarity and freshness. The lily-of-the-valley added a sweet, almost innocent touch, its tiny bell-shaped flowers chiming a delicate melody in her mind. Finally, the tart, juicy burst of black currant came through, its dark berries conjuring images of a shadowy forest path.
As the fragrance settled on her skin, the heart notes began to unfurl. The lush, velvety scent of rose enveloped her, its deep red petals soft and inviting, evoking memories of stolen kisses in a rose garden. The spicy warmth of carnation mingled with the opulent, honeyed aroma of Grasse jasmine, a bloom so rich and heady that it seemed to pulse with life. She could almost see the jasmine fields, stretching out under the golden sun, their scent carried on a gentle breeze.
The apple blossom added a light, fruity sweetness, reminiscent of biting into a crisp, fresh apple on a summer day, while the warm, sweet-spicy scent of cinnamon wrapped around her like a cozy, familiar embrace. The tuberose, with its creamy, almost narcotic scent, added a layer of exoticism and sensuality, its thick white petals releasing their perfume as the night air grew cooler.
Finally, the base notes grounded the fragrance with their deep, resonant tones. The Mysore sandalwood was smooth and woody, its warm, creamy scent like a treasured keepsake from a far-off land. Labdanum added a resinous, amber warmth, rich and balsamic, like the glowing embers of a dying fire. The Tyrolean oakmoss brought an earthy, mossy depth, evoking the scent of a forest floor after rain.
Patchouli added a dark, smoky richness, its earthy, spicy aroma grounding the perfume. The Bourbon vetiver was green and woody, its slightly smoky scent adding a touch of mystery. Opoponax, with its sweet, balsamic scent, added a resinous depth, while musk brought an animalic, sensual warmth. The rare and precious ambergris added a salty, marine touch, its scent reminiscent of the sea and sun-warmed skin. Benzoin, with its sweet, vanilla-like aroma, added a comforting, creamy warmth, and the balm of Gilead added a touch of medicinal, resinous sweetness. Finally, the civet brought an animalic, slightly feral note, adding a touch of wildness and danger.
As the fragrance of "Adieu Sagesse" enveloped her, Celeste felt a rush of emotions and images. She saw herself walking through sunlit gardens, exploring shadowy forests, and dancing under the moonlight. She heard the soft rustle of leaves, the distant murmur of the city, and the intoxicating melody of a love song. She tasted the sweetness of ripe fruits and the warmth of spices, and felt the soft petals of flowers and the smoothness of precious woods against her skin. It was a fragrance that captured the essence of fearless love, a love that was bold, uninhibited, and full of passion. It was the perfect scent for a night where anything was possible, and where caution was left far behind.
Bottles:
"Adieu Sagesse" by Jean Patou was presented in an exquisite flacon that epitomized the luxurious and artistic spirit of the 1920s. The perfume was housed in a Baccarat crystal "borne" flacon, a design that radiated elegance and sophistication. This particular bottle was designed by the renowned French design duo, Louis Süe and André Mare, who were celebrated for their contributions to the Art Deco movement. The flacon itself was a work of art, embodying the geometric precision and ornate detail characteristic of the period.
The "borne" flacon featured a sleek, cylindrical shape that was both modern and timeless, its clear crystal surface allowing the golden-hued perfume within to glisten and catch the light. The transparency of the crystal symbolized purity and clarity, creating a striking contrast with the opulence of the perfume it contained. The design was both simple and elaborate, with clean lines that accentuated the quality of the crystal and subtle engravings that added an air of refinement and grace.
Topping this beautiful vessel was a gilded "raspberry" shaped glass stopper, a distinctive and playful element that added a touch of whimsy to the otherwise stately bottle. The stopper was crafted to resemble a ripe raspberry, with intricate detailing that mimicked the fruit's texture and form. The gilding added a luxurious sheen, making the stopper a focal point that drew the eye and invited closer inspection. This unique feature not only served as a functional component, sealing the precious fragrance within, but also as an ornamental piece that highlighted the bottle's artistic value.
The combination of the Baccarat crystal flacon and the gilded raspberry stopper made the presentation of "Adieu Sagesse" truly remarkable. It reflected Jean Patou's commitment to creating a holistic luxury experience, where the beauty of the packaging was as captivating as the fragrance itself. This presentation would have appealed to the sophisticated and fashionable women of the 1920s, who valued elegance and artistry in every aspect of their lives. The flacon was more than just a container for the perfume; it was a statement piece, a collector's item that could be proudly displayed on a vanity or dressing table.
In essence, the presentation of "Adieu Sagesse" in the Sue et Mare designed Baccarat crystal "borne" flacon with its gilded raspberry stopper captured the spirit of the era. It embodied the fusion of art and functionality, luxury and modernity, making the experience of wearing the perfume an indulgence for all the senses. The careful craftsmanship and attention to detail in the design of the bottle echoed the intricate and evocative nature of the fragrance within, creating a perfect harmony between form and content.
Fate of the Fragrance:
1984 Version:
In 1984, "Adieu Sagesse" was given a new lease on life when it was reformulated with modern ingredients by Jean Kerleo and relaunched as part of Jean Patou's exclusive Ma Collection. This prestigious collection aimed to revive and celebrate the brand's rich history by reissuing scents from Patou's catalog of discontinued perfumes, along with some new editions. The reformulated "Adieu Sagesse" maintained the essence of the original chypre floral fragrance while incorporating contemporary notes to appeal to modern sensibilities. Kerleo's expert touch ensured that the fragrance retained its bold, romantic character, capturing the fearless and uninhibited spirit of love that it originally embodied. The reintroduction of "Adieu Sagesse" in Ma Collection not only honored the legacy of Jean Patou but also allowed a new generation of perfume enthusiasts to experience the timeless allure of this classic scent.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral chypre fragrance for women.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral chypre fragrance for women.
- Top notes: neroli, narcissus, jonquil, bergamot, lily-of-the-valley and black currant
- Middle notes: opoponax, carnation, jasmine and tuberose
- Base notes: vetiver, musk and civet
Scent Profile:
"Adieu Sagesse" is a captivating fragrance classified as a fruity floral chypre, designed to evoke sophistication and allure. Upon first application, the top notes burst forth with a blend of bright and citrusy neroli, complemented by the intoxicatingly sweet aroma of narcissus and jonquil. These delicate floral notes intertwine with the refreshing zest of bergamot, creating an initial impression that is both uplifting and elegant. Lily-of-the-valley adds a touch of freshness, while black currant lends a subtle tartness, enhancing the complexity of the fragrance.
As the scent evolves, the heart or middle notes reveal a rich and opulent bouquet. Opoponax introduces a resinous warmth, its balsamic sweetness intertwining with the spicy allure of carnation. Grasse jasmine contributes a heady, floral richness that is both sensual and sophisticated, while tuberose adds a creamy, narcotic sweetness that captivates the senses. Together, these middle notes create a luxurious and alluring floral composition that lingers on the skin.
The base notes of "Adieu Sagesse" provide a solid foundation that grounds the fragrance with depth and sensuality. Vetiver adds an earthy, woody aroma that contrasts beautifully with the creamy musk, which adds a soft and subtle animalic quality. Civet, known for its complex and slightly musky scent, adds a hint of intrigue and depth, further enhancing the allure of the perfume. These base notes combine seamlessly to create a lingering trail that is both sensual and unforgettable.
Overall, "Adieu Sagesse" is a fragrance that embodies sophistication and timeless allure. From its bright and citrusy opening to its rich and sensual dry-down, each phase of this perfume tells a story of elegance and intrigue. Ideal for the modern woman who appreciates classic femininity with a touch of mystery, "Adieu Sagesse" leaves a lasting impression wherever it is worn, making it a timeless addition to any fragrance collection.
Product Line:
Available as:
- 1 oz Parfum
- 2.5 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
- 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
- 0.20 oz Eau d Toilette Splash Mini Bottle
Top row: 1 oz parfum splash, 2.5 oz EDT splash
Bottom row: 0.20 oz EDT mini, 1.7 oz EDT Spray
Fate of the Fragrance:
Unfortunately, the second version of "Adieu Sagesse," despite its revival in Jean Patou's Ma Collection, was ultimately discontinued. This decision, though disappointing to fans of the fragrance, reflects the challenges and changing dynamics within the perfume industry. Despite its brief reappearance, the scent continues to hold a special place in the hearts of perfume enthusiasts and collectors who cherish its unique blend of fruity floral and chypre notes. The legacy of "Adieu Sagesse" persists as a testament to Jean Patou's vision and the enduring appeal of timeless, evocative fragrances.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.
2014 Version:
Adieu Sagesse was rejuvenated with modern ingredients by Thomas Fontaine and reintroduced in 2014 as part of the "Heritage Collection," a prestigious line dedicated to revitalizing classic Jean Patou fragrances. This relaunch aimed to preserve the essence of the original while incorporating contemporary elements to appeal to modern sensibilities. Under Fontaine's expertise, the fragrance retained its fruity floral chypre character, emphasizing the timeless allure that made it beloved decades earlier. The reintroduction of Adieu Sagesse in the Heritage Collection not only celebrated its legacy but also offered a new generation the chance to experience its sophisticated charm and enduring elegance.
- Top notes: neroli, rhubarb, grapefruit
- Middle notes: gardenia, jasmine, coconut and lily-of-the-valley
- Base notes: musk, civet, clove, orris
Scent Profile:
The reformulated version of Adieu Sagesse, classified as a floral fragrance for women, showcases a blend that captivates from the first spritz. Opening with top notes of neroli, rhubarb, and grapefruit, the initial impression is fresh and invigorating. Neroli adds a floral citrus brightness, while rhubarb introduces a tart, crisp facet, complemented by the juicy freshness of grapefruit. This combination creates an uplifting and modern introduction that sets the stage for the fragrance experience.
As the scent evolves, the heart notes reveal a lush bouquet of gardenia, jasmine, coconut, and lily-of-the-valley. Gardenia offers a creamy richness, its floral sweetness enveloping the senses with a luxurious aroma. Jasmine contributes a heady, intoxicating floral note that is both sensual and sophisticated. Coconut adds a tropical twist, bringing a hint of sweetness and exotic allure, while lily-of-the-valley enhances the composition with its delicate floral freshness.
The base notes of musk, civet, clove, and orris provide a solid foundation that anchors the fragrance with depth and warmth. Musk lends a soft, skin-like sensuality, while civet adds a touch of animalic allure, creating intrigue and depth. Clove contributes a spicy nuance, adding complexity and a hint of warmth, while orris root adds a powdery, floral elegance that lingers on the skin. Together, these base notes create a sophisticated and memorable dry-down that leaves a lasting impression.
In essence, the reformulated Adieu Sagesse in the Heritage Collection offers a modern interpretation of a classic floral fragrance. Its blend of fresh citrus, lush florals, and warm, sensual base notes creates a balanced and sophisticated scent experience. Ideal for the confident and modern woman, this fragrance celebrates timeless femininity with a contemporary twist, making it a versatile and alluring addition to any perfume collection.
Fate of the Fragrance:
As of 2023, the production of Jean Patou's renowned fragrances has ceased, marking the end of an era for perfume enthusiasts who cherished their iconic scents. Despite this discontinuation, aficionados can still seek out and indulge in their favorite Jean Patou perfumes at select authorized outlets scattered across the globe. These outlets serve as havens where the timeless allure of Jean Patou's creations lives on, offering a chance to experience the luxurious blends that once defined the brand's legacy.
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