Le Sien by Jean Patou c1928

In the 1920s, the launch of "Le Sien" by Jean Patou marked a significant departure in the world of perfumery, especially concerning feminine sports and the emergence of unisex fragrances. The French word "Le Sien" translates to "His" in English, suggesting a connection to personal ownership or possession. Jean Patou likely chose this name to evoke a sense of personal identity and intimacy, implying that the fragrance could be intimately associated with the wearer's own essence.

"Le Sien" would make a good name for a perfume due to its dual connotations of possession and identity. It speaks to both men and women, emphasizing a unisex appeal that was revolutionary for its time. Those who related to a perfume called "Le Sien" would likely be modern, progressive individuals who embraced the idea of breaking traditional gender norms in fragrance. They would respond positively to its fresh, clean scent profile, ideal for active lifestyles and outdoor pursuits like golf, smoking, and fast driving—a lifestyle emblematic of the liberated, modern woman of the 1920s.

This type of perfume would be most popular in urban centers across Europe and America, where the societal shifts of the Roaring Twenties encouraged greater freedom and equality between the sexes. The name "Le Sien" evokes images of sophistication, independence, and a new wave of modernity. It suggests a perfume that transcends traditional gender roles, appealing to both men and women who seek a fragrance that mirrors their active, dynamic lives.

"Le Sien" would indeed be a unique name for a perfume in the 1920s, standing out amidst the floral and powdery scents popular at the time. The word itself implies possession and personal connection, which would resonate deeply with individuals seeking a fragrance that reflects their personal style and adventurous spirit.

This perfume would most likely be worn during daytime activities, particularly outdoor sports and leisure pursuits, aligning with the energetic and liberated lifestyles of the era. Its fresh, clean scent would be refreshing after physical exertion, making it suitable for both men and women who valued both style and functionality in their fragrance choices.

In the vibrant cultural milieu of the 1920s, the emergence of "Le Sien" marked a pioneering moment in the history of perfumery. Created by Jean Patou in collaboration with Henri Alméras, this fragrance debuted in 1928 in France, potentially crossing the Atlantic to the United States by 1929. Positioned as the first unisex sport fragrance of its time, "Le Sien" carried the subtitle "femme sportive parfum masculin," signaling its dual appeal to both men and women embracing active, modern lifestyles.

Jean Patou, known for his avant-garde approach to fragrance, envisioned "Le Sien" as a departure from traditional gender-specific scents prevalent in early 20th-century perfumery. By blending elements typically associated with masculine and feminine fragrances, Patou and Alméras crafted a scent that embodied freshness and vigor, qualities ideal for individuals engaged in sports and outdoor activities—a lifestyle increasingly adopted by women breaking societal norms of the era.

The subtitle "femme sportive parfum masculin" encapsulated the essence of "Le Sien." It appealed to the liberated spirit of the modern woman, characterized by her active participation in sports like golf, a pursuit previously dominated by men. The fragrance offered a sophisticated yet approachable aroma, blending clean, crisp notes that resonated with the energetic optimism of the Roaring Twenties. Its unisex nature challenged conventional notions of perfume, reflecting the era's progressive attitudes towards gender roles and personal expression.

In essence, "Le Sien" by Jean Patou represented a paradigm shift in perfumery, pioneering the concept of unisex sport fragrances. Its introduction heralded a new era where fragrances were no longer confined by gender stereotypes but celebrated for their universal appeal and ability to complement the dynamic lifestyles of both men and women in the modern age.

Fragrance Composition:

This was the first of the fresh, clean, sporty type of perfumes and was promoted as a unisex fragrance for men and women. In 1929, Jean Patou advertised the chypre and leather fragrance, as “a masculine perfume for the outdoors woman” who “plays golf, smokes and drives a car at 120 kilometers an hour.” All of these activities were generally practiced by men prior to the 1920s. Previously, eau de cologne was THE preferred unisex fragrance.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a citrus chypre fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: bergamot, geranium, lemon verbena
• Middle notes: lavender, fern, rose, jasmine, carnation, orris
• Base notes: leather, oakmoss, Bourbon vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, tonka bean, ambergris, musk, labdanum, patchouli, civet

Scent Profile:

In 1929, Jean Patou's advertising campaign for "Le Sien" underscored its groundbreaking status as a fresh, clean, and sporty perfume designed to be unisex—a rarity in its time. This fragrance was boldly marketed as suitable for both men and women, challenging the traditional boundaries of gender-specific scents prevalent in early 20th-century perfumery.

"Le Sien" captivated the olfactory senses with its distinctive citrus chypre composition. Opening with invigorating top notes of bergamot, geranium, and lemon verbena, it immediately set a vibrant and refreshing tone. These citrus elements lent a bright and lively character to the fragrance, ideal for individuals engaged in active lifestyles and outdoor pursuits.

As "Le Sien" developed on the skin, its heart unfolded with a complex blend of lavender, fern, rose, jasmine, carnation, and orris. This aromatic bouquet added depth and sophistication, balancing floral elegance with a hint of herbal freshness. These middle notes contributed to the fragrance's versatility, appealing equally to both men and women who appreciated nuanced, multi-layered scents.

The base notes of "Le Sien" provided a solid foundation of warmth and sensuality. Rich leather, oakmoss, Bourbon vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, tonka bean, ambergris, musk, labdanum, patchouli, and civet combined to create a deep, earthy essence that lingered gracefully on the skin. These elements imparted a lasting, seductive quality to the fragrance, enhancing its appeal as a sophisticated choice for individuals embracing a dynamic, modern lifestyle.

Overall, "Le Sien" by Jean Patou not only pioneered the concept of unisex sport fragrances but also set a new standard in perfumery with its fresh, citrus chypre profile. Its blend of vibrant citrus, aromatic florals, and rich base notes encapsulated the spirit of the Roaring Twenties, appealing to men and women alike who sought fragrances that mirrored their active, liberated lives and challenged traditional gender norms.

Bottle:

The "flacon borne" of Le Sien, crafted from exquisite Baccarat crystal, stands as a testament to the luxurious craftsmanship of its era. Designed by Louis Sue and Andre Mare, prominent figures in the Art Deco movement, this bottle exuded elegance and sophistication. Its form was meticulously sculpted to evoke a sense of timeless beauty, showcasing the precision of French glassmaking artistry. The word borne is French for "boundary stone."

Atop the "flacon borne" rested a cut crystal lapidary stopper, adding a touch of opulence and refinement to the presentation. This stopper not only complemented the clarity and brilliance of the Baccarat crystal but also enhanced the tactile and visual allure of the bottle. Together, the bottle and stopper formed a harmonious union of art and function, embodying the spirit of luxury that Jean Patou sought to convey with Le Sien.

In addition to the grandeur of the "flacon borne," Le Sien was also available in a miniature version known affectionately as the "raspberry" flacon. This diminutive bottle, likely named for its small, rounded shape reminiscent of a raspberry, offered a more compact and portable option for those who wished to carry their favorite fragrance with them throughout the day. Despite its smaller size, the "raspberry" flacon maintained the same level of elegance and craftsmanship as its larger counterpart, making it a cherished accessory among perfume aficionados of the time.

Together, these bottle variations underscored Jean Patou's commitment to combining artistic flair with practicality in fragrance presentation. Whether displayed on a vanity or slipped discreetly into a purse, the Baccarat crystal "flacon borne" and the charming "raspberry" flacon ensured that Le Sien not only delighted the senses with its captivating scent but also dazzled the eye with its exquisite packaging.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Jean Patou's pioneering fragrance, Le Sien, which debuted with great acclaim in 1928, met its end in 1937 when it was discontinued. This decision marked the conclusion of an era for a perfume that had boldly challenged gender norms and redefined the boundaries of unisex fragrances in the 1920s.

During its brief yet impactful tenure, Le Sien captured the essence of a dynamic era characterized by the liberation and empowerment of women. Its fresh, clean, and sporty profile resonated with individuals seeking scents that complemented their active, modern lifestyles. The fragrance's classification as a citrus chypre underscored its versatility, appealing equally to men and women with its vibrant blend of bergamot, geranium, lemon verbena, lavender, rose, and other carefully curated notes.

The discontinuation of Le Sien in 1937 marked a shift in consumer preferences and the evolving landscape of perfumery. While it may have faded from production, its legacy continues to resonate within the realm of fragrance history, remembered for its pioneering spirit and its contribution to the development of unisex perfumes.

In retrospect, the brief lifespan of Le Sien encapsulates a moment of innovation and cultural change, reflecting the spirit of the Roaring Twenties and the early 20th century's embrace of modernity and equality. Though no longer available, its influence on perfumery remains a testament to Jean Patou's vision and the enduring impact of daring, boundary-pushing fragrances.

During the vibrant resurgence of the 1980s, Jean Patou embarked on a nostalgic journey by re-releasing several of their iconic original fragrances, aiming to tap into the enduring appeal of their heritage. However, amidst this revival, Le Sien, the pioneering unisex sport fragrance that had captured hearts in the 1920s, did not receive the opportunity for a comeback.

While many of Jean Patou's classic scents found renewed popularity during this era of rediscovery, Le Sien remained a notable absence from the lineup. Its absence was felt keenly by enthusiasts and collectors who appreciated its groundbreaking status and timeless appeal. Despite its discontinuation in 1937, Le Sien continued to hold a special place in the annals of perfume history, remembered fondly for its fresh, clean, and innovative composition.

Looking ahead, there remains hope among perfume aficionados that Jean Patou or its successors may one day reintroduce Le Sien to a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts. With its distinctive blend of citrus chypre notes and its pioneering status as a unisex scent ahead of its time, Le Sien possesses a timeless allure that could resonate once again in a modern context. Its reintroduction would not only honor Jean Patou's legacy but also reaffirm its place as a trailblazing fragrance that defied conventions and captured the spirit of its era.

As trends in perfumery continue to evolve and embrace diverse expressions of gender and lifestyle, the reintroduction of Le Sien could offer a poignant reminder of its historical significance and its enduring relevance in today's fragrance landscape. Until that moment arrives, Le Sien remains a cherished memory among those who appreciate its pioneering spirit and the innovation it brought to the world of perfume.