The Jean Patou Ma Collection consists of twelve perfumes originally launched between 1925 and 1964, then re-released in 1984 under the wing of Jean Kérleo, then in-house perfumer at Patou.
The Jean Patou Ma Collection is a remarkable ensemble of twelve perfumes, each originally launched between 1925 and 1964. This collection was released in 1984 under the careful supervision of Jean Kérleo, then the in-house perfumer at Patou. Kérleo's mission was to reproduce the original formulas as faithfully as possible, within the bounds of contemporary materials and techniques. This meticulous approach ensured that the perfumes retained their historical essence, serving as aromatic time capsules from their respective eras. Despite their faithful reproduction, these scents eventually faced discontinuation, a fate that befell many niche and heritage fragrances as modern tastes and market demands evolved.
The perfumes in the Ma Collection are interconnected by a shared aromatic base, creating a thread of common tonalities that weaves through the entire collection. This olfactory kinship makes each fragrance a unique yet connected piece of the overall tapestry. However, these scents are distinctly products of their time, embodying the stylistic and aromatic preferences of their original periods. They stand in stark contrast to contemporary fragrances, highlighting the significant evolution in perfumery over the decades.
Each vial in the Ma Collection contains 2ml of fragrance, offering a precious glimpse into the past. The collection includes:
- Ques Sais Je EDT: A fragrance that captures curiosity and intrigue.
- Vacances parfum: A scent that evokes the leisure and relaxation of holidays.
- Moment Supreme parfum: A perfume that embodies moments of ultimate significance.
- Adieu Sagesse EDT: A scent bidding farewell to wisdom, embracing spontaneity.
- Amour Amour EDT: A romantic fragrance celebrating love in all its forms.
- Colony EDT: A scent reflecting the exotic and adventurous spirit of colonial times.
- Chaldée EDT: A fragrance inspired by the ancient region of Chaldea, rich and mysterious.
- Normandie EDT: A perfume paying homage to the elegance of the French region.
- L'Heure Attendue EDT: A scent capturing the anticipation of awaited moments.
- Caline EDT: A fragrance that conveys tenderness and affection.
- Cocktail EDT: A scent inspired by the lively and sophisticated world of cocktail bars.
- Divine Folie EDT: A perfume celebrating divine madness and joyful exuberance.
These olfactory gems offer not only a sensory experience but also a historical narrative, preserving the artistic and cultural essence of the times in which they were created.
The Patou Revival in 1984 marked a significant and unconventional move in the French perfume industry. While iconic fragrances like Chanel No. 5 and Joy by Jean Patou have maintained their presence for generations, commemorative perfumes created to celebrate specific events have historically played brief but impactful roles before being discontinued. Jean Patou, known for its conservative approach, had broken tradition by re-introducing twelve such commemorative fragrances as part of their Ma Collection. This move was unprecedented, according to industry expert Jack Salzman of Smith, Barney, Harris Upham & Co., who noted the rarity of such a comprehensive revival in the perfume trade.
Patou's revival did not stop at merely re-launching these fragrances; the company also broke another long-standing industry practice by disclosing the basic ingredients of each perfume. This level of transparency was unusual in the perfume world, where ingredient lists were typically kept secret to protect proprietary blends and maintain an air of mystery. By sharing these details, Patou invited consumers to engage more deeply with the fragrances, understanding and appreciating their compositions.
Among the revived fragrances, Normandie stood out as a scent originally created for the maiden voyage of the legendary ocean liner in 1935, capturing the grandeur and elegance of that era. Vacances, another notable perfume, was introduced in 1936 to commemorate the introduction of paid vacations in France, encapsulating the spirit of leisure and freedom. L'Heure Attendue (The Expected Time) was launched in 1946 to celebrate the liberation of Paris two years earlier, embodying a sense of hope and triumph.
Jack Salzman believed that, whether driven by nostalgia or innovation, if Jean Patou promoted the fragrances effectively, they could pioneer a new trend in the industry. The Patou Revival not only reintroduced historical perfumes but also challenged and potentially reshaped the norms of the perfume world. By honoring the past while embracing new marketing and transparency strategies, Patou paved the way for a unique blend of tradition and modernity in the fragrance industry.
Product Line:
Ma Collection by Jean Patou is a tribute to timeless scents that capture the essence of the fashion, political, and cultural climates of their respective eras. These fragrances have been meticulously recreated to be appreciated for both their historical significance and contemporary relevance. Accompanying this exclusive collection is a beautifully illustrated four-color book that delves into the fashions and fragrances of Jean Patou, as well as the historical events that inspired them.
In 1986, Ma Collection retailed for $50, offering perfume enthusiasts a unique opportunity to own a piece of olfactory history. Each fragrance in the collection was available in various forms. The parfum form, presented in a one-ounce flacon, was elegantly wrapped in a Jean Patou designer silk scarf that matched the package design, and retailed for $150. For those who preferred a lighter concentration, the Eau de Toilette splash was available for $45 for a 2.5-ounce bottle. Additionally, the Eau de Toilette spray option was offered at $35 for a two-ounce bottle.
The bottles for the fragrances in Jean Patou's Ma Collection are as carefully designed as the scents they contain, featuring distinctive and historically inspired stoppers that add to their charm and elegance. The fragrances Adieu Sagesse, Que Sais Je?, L'Heure Attendue, and Amour Amour are adorned with the famous "raspberry" shaped frosted glass stoppers. This iconic design, which originally graced the Patou flacons, is a nod to the brand's rich heritage. Each of these stoppers comes in a different color, adding a unique touch to each bottle and enhancing its visual appeal.
In contrast, the fragrances Chaldée, Caline, Cocktail, and Vacances each feature a ball-shaped glass stopper. This simple yet elegant design complements the refined nature of these scents, providing a sense of continuity and cohesiveness within the collection.
The bottles for Colony, Divine Folie, Normandie, and Moment Suprême are topped with upside-down flat teardrop-shaped glass stoppers. This distinctive shape sets these fragrances apart, offering a unique aesthetic that reflects the innovative spirit of Jean Patou's creations.
Each bottle in the Ma Collection also features a colored paper label that corresponds to its packaging. This thoughtful detail ensures a cohesive and visually appealing presentation, making each fragrance a beautiful piece of art. These design elements not only honor the historical significance of Jean Patou's fragrances but also make them a joy to display and use.
This attentively curated collection not only provides a sensory journey through different historical periods but also showcases the enduring artistry and innovation of Jean Patou. Whether in parfum or Eau de Toilette form, each fragrance in Ma Collection is a testament to the timeless elegance and sophisticated craftsmanship that define the legacy of Jean Patou.
Limited Edition Launches:
Ma Collection by Jean Patou experienced a series of limited productions, each bringing these exquisite perfumes back to high-end department stores, allowing new generations of fragrance enthusiasts to experience their historical allure. The initial launch in 1984 was a significant event, as it marked the revival of twelve iconic perfumes originally released between 1925 and 1964. This re-release was overseen by Jean Kérleo, the in-house perfumer at Patou, who meticulously recreated the original formulas to preserve their authenticity. The 1984 launch garnered attention and appreciation from connoisseurs and collectors alike, eager to rediscover these vintage scents.
In 1986, Ma Collection saw its second launch, reaffirming its place in the luxury fragrance market. This reintroduction continued to cater to a niche audience who valued the historical and artistic significance of the perfumes. The collection's unique aromatic base and its connection to the past made it a cherished addition to any perfume aficionado's collection. By offering these scents once again, Patou ensured that the legacy of these perfumes lived on, even as modern trends shifted.
The third launch in 1989 further solidified Ma Collection's status as a timeless treasure. This release allowed the collection to reach a wider audience, including those who might have missed the previous launches. The perfumes remained true to their original compositions, providing a sensory journey through different eras of perfumery. Each fragrance in the collection told a story, encapsulating the essence of the time it was created.
The final launch in 1992 marked the last chapter in the storied history of Ma Collection. Included in this launch was two more perfumes: the reformulated Invitation and Delices. These two fragrances were not included in the miniature set. These two perfumes, sold exclusively as full-sized bottles of parfum, offered a last chance to experience the rich legacy of Jean Patou's classic creations. The release underscored the historical significance and meticulous craftsmanship of these fragrances, solidifying their place in the annals of perfumery. The enduring appeal of Ma Collection highlights the timeless beauty of vintage fragrances and the artistry that defined Jean Patou's work.
Despite their eventual discontinuation, Ma Collection remains a testament to the enduring appeal of vintage fragrances and the artistry of Jean Patou. Each re-launch brought a renewed appreciation for these perfumes, highlighting their historical significance and the meticulous craftsmanship involved in their creation.
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