Renowned as "the costliest perfume in the world," the Joy line was created in 1930 by haute couture designer Jean Patou. The perfume was first used commercially in 1931 according to trademark records. Jean Patou was the first designer to use his initials as a logo, presaging the monogrammed designer labels of today.
"Most expensive of Patou's perfumes is "Joy" which commands $35 for two- thirds of an ounce. The selling argument behind this walloping price is that each customer who orders it is entitled to have a special label bearing the legend, "Made for..."
Harper's Bazaar, 1933:
"Patou, a Pasha at heart, indulges in like privilege. Last year he created Joy, a perfume scarcely to be begged or bought. He will make it on special order, and when it comes it has your name printed on the label."
"PATOU — The "Joy" scent continues to be one of the most expensive perfumes made, which is itself enough to delight a lot of people; two ounces, $60."
Rosicrucian Digest, 1945:
"One of the costliest perfumes on the market today is called Joy." It is put up by Jean Patou, and sold in jade and crystal bottles."
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It starts with a flowery green top, followed by a luxurious natural floral heart, resting on a feminine floral base.
- Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, flower calyx note, peach, Bulgarian rose oil, tuberose, leafy green note
- Middle notes: rose de Mai, French jasmine de Mai, woodland lily, orchid, orris, Comoros ylang ylang, lily of the valley
- Base notes: vanilla, musk, Mysore sandalwood, civet
The predominant ingredients of Bulgarian rose and jasmine-one ounce each, it is said requires 10,600 jasmine flowers and 28 dozen May roses, the scent is a timeless masterpiece in simplicity. During two short weeks in the summer, several kilos of blossoms are harvested from the Jean Patou flower fields in Grasse to achieve the 10,600 flowers required for just one bottle of Joy perfume. The luxurious composition is coveted by women around the world.
Joy also made use of the Jasmin 231 base made by Firmenich. Jasmin 231 lent a trail of honeysuckle to the jasmine. Also used the Schimmel & Company chemical hyacinthine, and the schiff base citrindol (Indole/Citral) made by Firmenich.
- 1 oz Parfum Baccarat Flacon
- 1 oz Parfum Luxe
The most commonly found bottle for Joy is the classic design by Louis Sue, made up of elegant cut crystal. Two strange bottles were made, one of black glass, and the other entirely covered in gold. these are thought to be prototypes and not actually sold.
The classic flacon came in several sizes:
- Factice (dummy) bottle stands 7" tall.
- 3.5 oz bottle stands ?
- 2.75 oz bottle stands 3 1/8" tall
- 2 oz bottle stands 2.5" tall.
- 1.75 oz bottle stands 2.32" tall.
- 1 oz bottle stands 2.25" tall.
- 0.5 oz bottle stands 2" tall.
To open the classic Patou crystal flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Jean Patou in 1963:
Cushion stopper with finger, tap top upwards gently with glass object. Never heat this bottle.
Limited Edition Bottles:
Jo was presented in various other bottles to hold different concentrations: eau de toilette, eau de parfum, cologne, etc.
The tall Eau de Toilette atomizer with the black plastic cap was designed by Pierre Dinand in 1984 and manufactured by Verreries Brosse and Pochet et du Courval with plastic components supplied by TPI.