Cocktail by Jean Patou c1984

Cocktail, launched in 1984 as part of Jean Patou's "Ma Collection," was inspired by the iconic trio of scents originally crafted in the 1930s by Jean Patou himself: Cocktail Dry, Cocktail Sweet, and Cocktail Bitter-Sweet. This reimagining is credited to Jean Kerleo, who brought his own modern interpretation to the fragrance, particularly focusing on Cocktail Dry.

Jean Kerleo's approach aimed to capture the essence and allure of Cocktail Dry while infusing it with contemporary elements. This modern interpretation retained the sophisticated and lively character of the original fragrance, making it accessible to a new generation of perfume enthusiasts while honoring the legacy of Jean Patou's olfactory creations.

The launch of Cocktail in 1984 under the "Ma Collection" series not only preserved the spirit of the classic Cocktail perfumes but also introduced them to a broader audience who appreciated both the historical significance and the timeless appeal of these scents. Kerleo's adaptation ensured that Cocktail continued to resonate with its original charm while adapting to contemporary tastes, solidifying its place as a beloved fragrance in the lineage of Jean Patou's enduring creations.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is a powdery chypre, with only the faintest hint of sweetness due to the floral notes. It opens with a sharp, but dry, slightly bitter note of petitgrain and lavender accord, then honeysuckle, hyacinth, geranium, clove, green not indolic jasmine and rose meld at the heart. Dusty vetiver, ambergris, oakmoss and soapy musk round out the base.

• Top notes: apricot, anise, aldehydes, verbena, chamomile, bergamot, petitgrain, honeysuckle and lavender
• Middle notes: Chinese osmanthus, galbanum, mimosa, hyacinth, geranium, Comoros ylang ylang, clove, Grasse jasmine and rosa centifolia
• Base notes: Peru balsam, tolu balsam, orris, Mysore sandalwood, patchouli, tonka, Bourbon vetiver, musk, incense, black tea, Yugoslavian oakmoss, musk, benzoin, civet and ambergris

Scent Profile:

Step into the lavish Art Deco cocktail bar of the 1930s, where every detail exudes opulence and sophistication. The furnishings are sleek and polished, with plush velvet chairs and mirrored surfaces that reflect the glint of crystal chandeliers overhead. Patrons, adorned in their finest jewelry and fashions, mingle amidst the soft glow of ambient lighting and the gentle hum of conversation.

As you approach the bar, the air is redolent with a powdery chypre fragrance, subtle yet captivating. The aroma unfolds in layers, beginning with a sharp, dry note that evokes the bitterness of petitgrain and the herbal freshness of lavender. These initial scents mingle with the crispness of bergamot and the delicate sweetness of apricot, creating an intriguing contrast.

Moving closer, you encounter a heart of floral richness. Honeysuckle and hyacinth bloom alongside the sultry embrace of jasmine and rose, their green and slightly indolic facets adding depth and complexity. Geranium and clove lend a spicy warmth that is softened by the powdery sweetness of mimosa and the resinous quality of galbanum.

As you take a sip of your cocktail, notes of anise and verbena dance on your palate, intertwined with the soothing warmth of chamomile. The taste is as sophisticated as the setting itself, with hints of black tea adding a subtle bitterness that complements the floral sweetness perfectly. Each sip is a symphony of flavors, just as each fragrance note harmonizes seamlessly in the air.

In the background, the ambiance is alive with soft murmurs of conversation and the clinking of glasses. The bartender, with a welcoming smile and white coat, expertly mixes drinks with precision and flair. His demeanor adds to the atmosphere of refined elegance and attentive service that characterizes the bar.

The base notes of the fragrance emerge gradually, grounding the composition with a velvety richness. Peru balsam and Mysore sandalwood impart a woody depth, while patchouli and Bourbon vetiver add an earthy allure. Oakmoss from Yugoslavia lends a mossy, green quality that is underscored by the warmth of tonka and the lingering sensuality of musk and ambergris.

As you linger in this luxurious environment, you can't help but notice the intricate details of the crystal glassware and the gleam of polished silver trays. The touch of the smooth glass and the weight of the crystal in your hand are a testament to the craftsmanship of the era, reflecting the elegance and refinement that define both the fragrance and the setting.

In this Art Deco cocktail bar, surrounded by the essence of Cocktail Dry, you experience not just a fragrance, but a sensory journey through an era of glamour and sophistication, where every detail is designed to delight the senses and evoke a timeless sense of style and luxury.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Cocktail by Jean Patou, a fragrance that encapsulated the essence of sophistication and elegance, quietly exited the stage, its discontinuation marking the end of an era of timeless allure. The exact date of its departure from the perfumery world remains elusive, but it is believed to have occurred sometime before 1990. Despite its discontinuation, Cocktail continues to hold a cherished place in the hearts of perfume enthusiasts and collectors alike, remembered for its complex blend of floral and woody notes that once adorned glamorous evenings in the Art Deco era. Its absence leaves a lingering nostalgia for those who experienced its captivating allure, a testament to its enduring appeal and the legacy of Jean Patou in the world of perfumery. 

My friend Jana has a bottle of the Cocktail parfum in her fine shop, the Fragrance Vault.