In 1925, Jean Patou unveiled a trio of distinct fruit-floral fragrances—Amour Amour, Que Sais-Je?, and Adieu Sagesse—represented a pioneering concept aimed at capturing the various stages of love. Each fragrance was meticulously crafted to evoke distinct emotional landscapes and intimate experiences associated with love, offering wearers a narrative journey through scent.
These fragrances were introduced amidst a backdrop of significant cultural change in attitudes towards love and romance. This era, often dubbed the Roaring Twenties, heralded a time of social liberation, artistic experimentation, and a departure from conventional values.
Amour Amour (Love, Love): This fragrance represented the initial, passionate stage of love. It was designed to capture the intoxicating and exhilarating feelings of infatuation and desire. The scent likely featured bright, vibrant top notes and lush, blooming florals to evoke the sensation of new, blossoming love.
Que Sais-Je? (What Do I Know?): This fragrance symbolized the contemplative and questioning phase of love. It reflected the moments of uncertainty and introspection that often accompany deeper emotional connections. The scent would have had a more complex composition, perhaps with a mix of fruits and florals layered with subtle, introspective undertones, evoking the complexity and nuances of a developing relationship.
Adieu Sagesse (Goodbye Caution/Farewell Wisdom): Representing the stage where caution is abandoned, "Adieu Sagesse" embodied the fearless and uninhibited embrace of love. This fragrance was designed to be bold and seductive, capturing the essence of passionate, unreserved affection. It likely combined rich, opulent floral notes with warm, inviting undertones, creating a scent that was both alluring and memorable.
In 1925, when Jean Patou launched the perfume "Amour Amour," the world was in the midst of a cultural shift, particularly in Europe and North America, where societal norms were loosening and modern concepts of romance were taking hold. The name "Amour Amour" translates to "Love Love" in English, chosen by Jean Patou to evoke a sense of doubled intensity and passion inherent in the initial stages of romantic love. The repetition of "Amour" emphasizes the profound emotional state associated with infatuation and desire, making it a fitting name for a perfume that aimed to capture these intense feelings.
The choice of "Amour Amour" as a perfume name was strategic. It would appeal to individuals experiencing the exhilarating rush of new love, a sensation universal across cultures and demographics. Young adults, particularly those in cosmopolitan cities like Paris, London, and New York, where social and romantic freedoms were expanding, would have been drawn to such a fragrance. Its popularity would likely have been highest in these urban centers, where the pursuit of love and adventure intertwined with modernity and luxury.
The name "Amour Amour" conjures images of passion, romance, and spontaneity. It suggests a fragrance that is vibrant, floral, and youthful, capturing the essence of budding relationships and the excitement of new connections. The repetition of "Amour" emphasizes a sense of abundance and intensity, setting it apart as a unique and evocative name for a perfume that promises to enhance the wearer's allure and confidence.
"Amour Amour" would have been interpreted as a bold and romantic choice for perfume enthusiasts, symbolizing a celebration of love in its earliest stages. It would likely have been worn during evening outings, social gatherings, and intimate encounters, enhancing the wearer's presence with its intoxicating blend of bright, vibrant notes and blooming florals. The perfume's name and composition were crafted to resonate deeply with those seeking to embody and express the exhilaration of newfound love, making "Amour Amour" a timeless and alluring addition to Jean Patou's fragrance repertoire.
A Collaboration:
Henri Almeras and Raymond Barbas, both integral figures in Jean Patou's perfume creations, brought their unique skills and perspectives to the collaboration that resulted in "Amour Amour" in 1925. Henri Almeras was renowned for his innovative techniques in perfumery, often pushing boundaries to create fragrances that resonated deeply with emotions and experiences. Raymond Barbas, being Jean Patou's brother-in-law, not only shared a familial bond but also a profound understanding of Patou's vision and aspirations for his perfumes.
Their collaboration was purposeful, aiming to encapsulate the essence of the initial, passionate stage of love. This stage is characterized by intense emotions, excitement, and the thrill of new beginnings. Almeras and Barbas would have carefully selected ingredients and orchestrated the composition to evoke these sensations. Bright, vibrant top notes would likely have been chosen to symbolize the exhilarating rush of infatuation, while lush, blooming florals would have added depth and a sense of burgeoning romance.
Its name, chosen by Barbas himself, resonated with the spirit of love. Alongside its counterparts in the "happy triumvirate" of Patou scents— "Que Sais-je?" and "Adieu Sagesse"—"Amour Amour" stood out as a testament to Barbas's creative prowess and his ability to distill the complexities of human emotion into olfactory masterpieces.
The name "Amour Amour," with its repeated emphasis on love, was not just a label but a declaration. It was meant to resonate with individuals experiencing or seeking passionate connections, promising a fragrance that enhanced their allure and captured the essence of romantic intensity. Almeras and Barbas, through their collaboration, sought to create more than just a perfume; they aimed to craft an olfactory experience that mirrored the emotional journey of falling in love.
In summary, the partnership between Henri Almeras and Raymond Barbas for "Amour Amour" was a synergy of innovative perfumery techniques and a deep understanding of Jean Patou's vision. Together, they succeeded in creating a fragrance that not only captured the essence of passionate love but also resonated with wearers seeking to embody and express their romantic aspirations.
In the spirit of perfumery trends of the 1920s, similar to practices by perfumers like Coty, Jean Patou tailored specific fragrances to complement different hair colors. Amour Amour was recommended for blondes, Que Sais Je? for brunettes, and Adieu Sagesse for redheads. Vintage advertisements of the time often highlighted these associations, emphasizing how each perfume harmonized with the natural attributes and personalities of women, enhancing their allure and individuality through scent.
Amour Amour was available in parfum, cologne (called parfum-cologne), lotion (locion) and eau de toilette.
Original Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh, fruity top of syringa, lemon, neroli, blackcurrant, and strawberry, followed by a classic floral heart of heliotrope, jasmine, rose, reseda and gardenia, resting on a floral, woody base with vanilla, oakmoss and ambergris. Amour Amour used the "Amarante" perfume base from Givaudan which gave it a beautiful accord of lily of the valley, rose, sandalwood, musk and jasmine.
- Top notes: aldehydes, syringa, bergamot, lemon, cassie, neroli, black currant, orange blossom water, strawberry
- Middle notes: oregano, gardenia, hawthorn, genet, reseda, Grasse jasmine, heliotrope, lilium, rose, orris, carnation, lily of the valley, mountain narcissus, ylang ylang, lilac
- Base notes: vanilla, ambergris, privet, honey, musk, civet, Bourbon vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, oakmoss
L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"Amour-Amour: Love twice...the answer or the echo? Lilac responds to rose and carnation to jasmine. This tenderly flowery duo suits the charm of a blonde young girl. Amour-Amour: perfume of perfumes!"
Scent Profile:
In the bustling streets of 1920s Paris, amidst the whirl of city life and the promise of romance, Evelyn found herself swept up in the intoxicating allure of a budding love affair. It was a warm spring evening when she first encountered him, the scent of blooming flowers and citrus fruits lingering in the air. As they strolled along the Champs-Élysées, the evening sun cast a golden hue over the city, heightening the vibrancy of their surroundings.
The encounter began with a burst of freshness that mirrored the excitement pulsing through Evelyn's veins. Aldehydes sparkled like champagne bubbles, lifting her spirits as she caught the scent of syringa bushes in bloom. Bergamot and lemon added a citrusy tang to the air, while neroli and orange blossom water infused the atmosphere with a delicate floral sweetness. The aroma of ripe black currants and strawberries teased her senses, evoking a sense of youthful exuberance and anticipation.
As their conversation deepened, Evelyn noticed the shift in the fragrance around her. Oregano and reseda added a subtle herbal undertone, mingling with the heady scent of gardenias and roses in full bloom. Grasse jasmine exuded its intoxicating aroma, intertwined with the powdery sweetness of heliotrope. Lily of the valley and ylang-ylang lent a delicate floral bouquet, while carnations and lilies added a touch of sophistication and allure. Each note seemed to unfold like petals in the breeze, creating a tapestry of fragrant memories.
As twilight descended, their path led them to a secluded garden, where the base notes of Amour Amour began to reveal themselves. Vanilla infused the air with a warm, comforting sweetness, while ambergris added a hint of exotic allure. Privet bushes rustled gently in the evening breeze, releasing a subtle green freshness. The scent of honey and musk enveloped Evelyn like a soft embrace, while civet added a hint of animalic sensuality. Bourbon vetiver and Mysore sandalwood anchored the fragrance with their woody richness, mingling with the earthy, mossy aroma of oakmoss.
In this moment, surrounded by the essence of Amour Amour, Evelyn felt herself captivated by the promise of new beginnings. The perfume, with its complex layers of freshness, florals, and warmth, mirrored the excitement and exhilaration of her burgeoning romance. As she leaned in to catch his gaze under the moonlit sky, Amour Amour became not just a fragrance, but a poignant reminder of the intoxicating magic of love in its earliest, most passionate stages.
Bottles:
Amour Amour by Jean Patou was originally housed in an exquisite flacon that epitomized the luxurious and artistic spirit of the 1920s. Designed by the renowned French duo Louis Süe and André Mare, celebrated for their contributions to the Art Deco movement, the Baccarat crystal "borne" flacon radiated elegance and sophistication.
The sleek, cylindrical shape of the "borne" flacon, French for boundary stone, was both modern and timeless. Its clear crystal surface showcased the golden-hued perfume within, capturing and reflecting light to symbolize purity and clarity. The design featured clean lines that emphasized the crystal's quality, with subtle engravings adding refinement and grace.
Topping this masterpiece was a gilded glass stopper shaped like a ripe raspberry, a playful yet distinctive element that added whimsy to the bottle's stately appearance. Crafted with intricate detailing to mimic the fruit's texture and form, the gilded finish provided a luxurious sheen. Beyond its functional role in sealing the fragrance, the stopper served as a focal point, enhancing the bottle's artistic appeal.
Together, the Baccarat crystal flacon and the gilded raspberry stopper presented "Amour Amour" in a truly remarkable manner. Reflecting Jean Patou's dedication to luxury and aesthetic harmony, this presentation appealed to fashionable women of the era who valued elegance in every aspect of their lives. The flacon was not just a vessel for the perfume but a statement of artistry and sophistication, a collector's item that graced vanities and dressing tables.
In essence, the Sue et Mare-designed Baccarat crystal "borne" flacon with its gilded raspberry stopper encapsulated the era's spirit. It harmoniously merged art with functionality, luxury with modernity, enhancing the sensory experience of wearing "Amour Amour" with its meticulous craftsmanship and evocative design..
parfum-cologne bottle,photo by etsy seller eColognes
Lotion, photo from ebay
Harper's Bazaar, 1930:
"Below, a bottle in zipper case,- the mixing kit, and finally three old favourites: Amour Amour, Le Sien, and Patou's powder."
Life, 1933:
"Moment Supreme" is the best- named and most successful of Patou scents. Barbas thought up its name, as he did also the following happy triumvirate: "Que Sais-je ?" "Amour- Amour" and "Adieu Sagesse."
Perfumery and Essential Oil Record, 1937:
"The house of Jean Patou has also brought out some attractive, if less ambitious, perfumery packings recently. Its most successful perfumes are " Amour-Amour," " Le Sien," " Moment Supreme," " Normandie," and " Joy." The first of these is a delicate blossom essence that smells faintly musty but is also very warm and feminine. Le Sien is described as a 'manly' perfume, and is intended for sporting occasions. Joy, is a really exceptional perfume, as can be imagined from the fact that the smallest bottle, holding 25 grammes of liquid on is sold at 350 francs. The Normandie bottle in this case is modelled after the ship from which the perfume takes its name. By an ingenious arrangement, the actual container is is modelled to represent the middle section section of the liner, with a surface of aluminum, whilst at either side are projections with aluminum 'trappings' representing the bows and stern respectively. The other most interesting bottle is that shown in the photograph, containing "Moment Supreme." It is squat and triangular, quite heavy considering the size, with a fine globular stopper attached by a gold cord."
Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1938:
"JEAN PATOU For the first time, three Jean Patou odors, "Amour Amour," "Moment Supreme" and "Colony" make their bow in a $2.50 size. Jean Patou is also offering a combination in one package of the three bottles."
Cue, 1954:
"And Jean Patou is just introducing three of his favorite scents, Cocktail Dry, Moment Supreme and Amour, Amour, in an imaginative purse-size "boule" of honeycombed crystal ($10 and $12)."
Fate of the Fragrance & 1974 Reformulation & Relaunch:
Amour Amour, once a beloved emblem of passionate romance from its debut in 1925, met a quiet end when it was discontinued, the exact date lost to time. Yet, like a dormant bloom awaiting spring, its fragrance briefly resurfaced in 1974, breathing new life into its storied legacy. This revival brought forth a refreshed composition, where the essence of romance was reimagined with a blend that spoke to the era's evolving tastes.
The 1974 incarnation of Amour Amour unveiled a bouquet of notes that echoed the essence of its original allure. Imagine strolling through the mountainous French countryside, where narcissus blooms carpet the hillsides, their delicate fragrance mingling with the crisp freshness of rose and jasmine. The scent profile was elevated with the citrusy brightness of bergamot, complemented by other precious oils that added depth and complexity.
During its brief resurgence and continued availability until 1979, Amour Amour captivated a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts. Its romantic blend spoke to those who cherished the timeless allure of floral compositions intertwined with the nostalgia of past elegance. Whether worn for a special evening out or as a daily indulgence in personal luxury, Amour Amour in its 1974 iteration embodied a sophisticated charm that transcended decades, bridging the gap between classic elegance and contemporary allure.
1984 Reformulation & Relaunch:
In 1984, Jean Kerleo, the esteemed perfumer known for his artistic sensibilities and deep respect for fragrance heritage, undertook the meticulous task of reformulating Jean Patou's iconic perfumes as part of the exclusive Ma Collection. This initiative sought to resurrect scents from Patou's storied catalog of discontinued perfumes, including the cherished Amour Amour, alongside introducing new editions that would captivate modern audiences.
For Amour Amour, Kerleo approached the reformulation with a reverence for its original essence while embracing contemporary olfactory trends. Retaining the core elements that defined its allure—such as the romantic floral bouquet and delicate citrus notes—he introduced subtle refinements to enhance its appeal for the 1980s audience. The result was a blend that harmonized the timeless elegance of its predecessor with a fresh interpretation suited to modern tastes.
The relaunch of Amour Amour within the Ma Collection represented a celebration of Jean Patou's legacy and commitment to craftsmanship. Each bottle carried not just a fragrance, but a narrative of romance and sophistication that resonated with connoisseurs of fine perfumery. Kerleo's reformulation ensured that Amour Amour remained a beacon of luxury and allure, embodying the spirit of its era while seamlessly integrating into the evolving landscape of fragrance appreciation.
In the realm of exclusive perfumes, the Ma Collection reissues stood as testament to Jean Patou's enduring influence and commitment to excellence. By reintroducing Amour Amour and other classics under Kerleo's expert guidance, Patou preserved its legacy while inviting new generations to experience the timeless allure of these iconic scents.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: neroli, bergamot, strawberry and lemon
- Middle notes: oregano, carnation, lily, lilac, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and narcissus
- Base notes: honey, musk, civet, vetiver and heliotrope
Scent Profile:
The reimagined Amour Amour, classified as a fresh floral fragrance for women, opens with an invigorating burst that evokes the essence of a sunlit garden in full bloom. At first spritz, notes of neroli and bergamot intertwine, their citrusy brightness mingling with the sweet juiciness of ripe strawberries and the zesty freshness of lemon. This harmonious blend of top notes sets a vibrant and uplifting tone, capturing the attention with its youthful exuberance and charm.
As the fragrance settles, the heart notes reveal a rich tapestry of floral delights, each bloom contributing to its complex and captivating character. Oregano adds a hint of herbal spice, blending seamlessly with the spicy allure of carnation. Delicate lily and lilac lend their soft, powdery nuances, while orris root and jasmine infuse the composition with a touch of sophistication and elegance. Ylang-ylang and rose add a romantic depth, their floral sweetness intertwining with the intoxicating aroma of narcissus, creating a bouquet that is both timeless and enchanting.
In its final stages, Amour Amour leaves a lasting impression with its warm and sensual base notes. Honey provides a luscious sweetness, complemented by the subtle allure of musk and the animalic depth of civet. Vetiver adds an earthy undertone, grounding the fragrance with its woody nuances, while heliotrope contributes a soft, powdery finish that lingers on the skin like a gentle caress. Together, these base notes harmonize to create a captivating olfactory journey, where each element unfolds delicately yet decisively, leaving a trail of elegance and allure in its wake.
Amour Amour, in its fresh floral incarnation, embodies the essence of feminine grace and sophistication. From its lively opening to its sensual conclusion, it offers a fragrance experience that is both uplifting and deeply evocative, resonating with those who appreciate the beauty and complexity of floral compositions. Ideal for daytime wear or romantic evenings, Amour Amour promises to adorn its wearer with a bouquet of emotions and memories, capturing the essence of timeless allure with every spray.
Product Line:
Available as:
- 1 oz Parfum
- 2.5 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
- 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
- 0.20 oz Eau d Toilette Splash Mini Bottle
Fate of the Fragrance:
Unfortunately, the second version of Amour Amour, despite its beauty and allure, was discontinued at some point in its history. It's a reminder of how even beloved fragrances can sometimes fade from availability, leaving behind memories of their unique compositions and the emotions they once evoked.
2014 Reformulation & Relaunch:
In 2014, Jean Patou revisited the classic allure of Amour Amour with the launch of Deux Amours, a revitalized fragrance crafted by perfumer Thomas Fontaine as part of the esteemed "Heritage Collection." This collection aimed to reintroduce and celebrate iconic scents from Patou's illustrious past, ensuring their timeless appeal would resonate with contemporary fragrance enthusiasts.
Deux Amours pays homage to the original Amour Amour, which first captivated hearts in 1925 with its romantic floral composition. Fontaine's reinterpretation carefully preserves the essence of its predecessor while infusing modern elements to suit evolving tastes.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It described as a floral amber (oriental) fragrance for women.
- Top notes: bergamot and neroli
- Middle notes: rose, jasmine, tuberose and ylang-ylang
- Base notes: woodsy notes, sandalwood and styrax
Scent Profile:
The fragrance Deux Amours by Jean Patou, characterized as a floral amber (oriental) scent for women, offers a luxurious olfactory journey that intertwines classic elegance with modern sensibilities. Launched as part of the "Heritage Collection," it reimagines the timeless allure of Amour Amour with a blend crafted to captivate contemporary tastes.
At its opening, Deux Amours unveils a harmonious symphony of top notes where bergamot and neroli create a citrusy and uplifting introduction. The bright zest of bergamot melds seamlessly with the floral sweetness of neroli, setting the stage for a sophisticated and inviting experience.
As the fragrance evolves, the heart notes bloom into a rich bouquet of floral delights. Rose and jasmine, synonymous with romance and femininity, interlace with the creamy richness of tuberose. Ylang-ylang adds a touch of exotic allure, infusing the composition with its intoxicating floral aroma. Together, these middle notes create a lush and captivating floral harmony that speaks of elegance and refinement.
In its final stages, Deux Amours leaves a lasting impression with its warm and enveloping base notes. Woodsy nuances offer a grounding element, balancing the floral opulence with a subtle earthy depth. Sandalwood contributes a creamy and velvety texture, enhancing the fragrance with its smooth and comforting presence. Styrax adds a touch of resinous sweetness, completing the composition with a lingering trail that envelops the wearer in a luxurious embrace.
Deux Amours by Jean Patou stands as a testament to the brand's legacy of sophistication and craftsmanship, reinterpreting a classic with a contemporary twist. Its floral amber (oriental) profile invites women to indulge in a scent that combines timeless elegance with modern allure, promising an olfactory experience that is both captivating and unforgettable.
Fate of the Fragrance:
As of 2023, Jean Patou's illustrious line of fragrances, known for their timeless elegance and sophisticated compositions, ceased production. Despite this, enthusiasts can still discover and purchase their favorite Jean Patou perfumes through select authorized outlets located around the globe. These outlets serve as custodians of Patou's olfactory legacy, offering a chance for aficionados to procure these cherished scents that have left an indelible mark on the world of perfumery. Whether seeking the classic allure of Joy or the romantic nostalgia of Amour Amour, these authorized venues provide a glimpse into a bygone era of luxury and refinement, where each fragrance tells a story of elegance and sophistication.
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