Jean Patou Perfumes: Colony by Jean Patou c1937

In the 1930s, the context of French colonies was deeply intertwined with notions of exoticism, luxury, and adventure. This was a period when travel to far-flung destinations was becoming more accessible, and the allure of tropical climates and exotic locales captivated the imagination of many in Europe and beyond. French colonies, particularly in Africa, the Caribbean, and Southeast Asia, represented a blend of mystique, natural beauty, and cultural richness.

The French Colonial Exposition (Exposition coloniale internationale) of 1931, held in Paris, was a grand showcase of France's colonial empire, featuring pavilions dedicated to various territories under French control. It displayed cultural artifacts, natural resources, and achievements from colonies across the globe, capturing the imaginations of visitors with exotic imagery and the allure of far-off lands. The expo aimed to promote French colonialism, highlight its economic benefits, and reinforce cultural ties between France and its colonies. Jean Patou, a visionary in the world of perfumery, found inspiration in this rich tapestry of cultural diversity and luxury. The exposition highlighted tropical elements such as rare materials and exotic fruits like pineapple, symbolizing opulence and exoticism in the early 20th century.

Patou's decision to create the perfume "Colony," launched in 1937, was influenced by this cultural zeitgeist. The fragrance aimed to encapsulate the essence of the French colonies, particularly emphasizing the lush and tropical atmosphere evoked by the exposition. Pineapple, a central note in Colony, became synonymous with luxury and exoticism, echoing the themes celebrated at the 1931 exposition. Patou's approach to perfumery was meticulous; he ensured that Colony not only captured the scent of pineapple accurately but also resonated with the cultural fascination of the era.

The timing of Colony's release in 1937 was strategic. Perfume development involves rigorous testing and refinement to achieve the desired olfactory profile, especially when aiming to recreate specific scents like pineapple. Patou also likely considered market timing, waiting for an opportune moment after the initial buzz of the exposition had settled, while still capitalizing on the enduring allure of colonial themes in fashion and culture. By 1937, Colony was ready to be widely distributed and marketed, ensuring its success as a fragrance that captured the exoticism and luxury associated with the French colonies, inspired by the grandeur of the 1931 exposition.

Patou's decision to launch the perfume "Colony," created by Henri Almeras, was influenced by this cultural zeitgeist. The fragrance aimed to encapsulate the essence of the French colonies, particularly emphasizing the lush and tropical atmosphere evoked by the exposition. Pineapple, a central note in Colony, became synonymous with luxury and exoticism, echoing the themes celebrated at the 1931 exposition. The word "Colony" itself evokes images of distant lands under French rule, where pineapples were often grown as a symbol of tropical abundance and sophistication. Pineapples, being a luxury fruit in Europe at the time, carried connotations of wealth and exoticism. Patou's approach to perfumery was meticulous; he ensured that Colony not only captured the scent of pineapple accurately but also resonated with the cultural fascination of the era.

"Colony" would have appealed to individuals seeking to evoke the essence of adventure, luxury, and tropical escape. Those who related to this perfume might have been travelers, colonial officials, socialites, or anyone fascinated by the allure of far-off lands and tropical climates. The scent of pineapple, a central note in Colony, would have further enhanced the perfume's association with freshness, sweetness, and the exotic.

This type of perfume would likely have been most popular in cosmopolitan cities where there was a strong interest in fashion, luxury goods, and the latest trends in perfumery. Places like Paris, London, New York, and other major European capitals would have been ideal markets for a perfume named "Colony," as they were hubs of cultural exchange and appreciation for luxury goods from around the world.

The name "Colony" itself is quite unique for a perfume. It suggests a narrative of exploration, discovery, and the opulence associated with French colonial possessions. It would have been interpreted as a symbol of sophistication and worldliness, appealing to those who sought to embody a sense of adventure and refinement in their daily lives.

"Colony," by Jean Patou, would have been most likely worn during the warmer months, as its tropical and fruity notes would complement the summertime ambiance. It would have been favored for daytime wear, perhaps to social events, garden parties, or leisurely outings where its refreshing and exotic character could be appreciated.

Overall, "Colony" encapsulates a moment in perfume history where the fascination with distant lands and the luxury associated with French colonial influence converged into a scent that promised escape, elegance, and a touch of tropical allure.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a warm and exotic fruity chypre fragrance for women.

Top notes: aldehydes, pineapple, ylang ylang, bergamot
Middle notes: carnation, iris, oak, opoponax
Base notes: vanilla, leather, musk, Bourbon vetiver, oak moss, castoreum, Mysore sandalwood, costus

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Colony by Jean Patou: drop by drop, the fragrant soul of vanilla, fruits and flowers open to the sun distills this perfume with exotic and warm notes."

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Colony by Patou: Warm and fresh at the same time. Dominant note: exotic fruit. To belong to the elite of the cosmopolitan world. For her pleasure, or her business, she always has one foot in London, one in New York."

Femme, 1946:

"Nostalgia for the fortunate islands will cruelly grip you when you open "Colony," from Patou, you will no longer be able to hold off sailing towards the equator and the enchantments of musk, perfumes and spices that this magnificent aroma suggests! Scent of brunette, but also of blonde with a spicy contrast. Blonde Creoles are said to be the most charming. For the real blondes of Paris, "Amour Amour", and for all, "Joy," based on rose and jasmine: the aristocracy of perfumes!"

Scent Profile:

In the sultry heat of a Parisian summer, I step into an elegant perfumery where the air is redolent with the promise of far-off lands. The scent of Jean Patou's "Colony" beckons me—a warm and exotic fruity chypre fragrance that transports me to the lush tropical colonies of the 1930s.

As I lift the bottle, in the shape of a pineapple itself, I'm greeted first by a burst of sparkling aldehydes. They shimmer like sunlight on the waves, creating a sense of effervescent anticipation. With each sniff, the essence of pineapple unfolds—a fruit that, in this era, embodies luxury and exoticism. I close my eyes and imagine plantation fields stretching under a tropical sun, where ripe pineapples emit a sweet, tangy aroma that mingles with the warm breeze.

Ylang ylang adds a floral richness, its heady scent reminiscent of tropical blossoms in full bloom. Bergamot lends a citrusy brightness, like the zest of freshly picked fruit, enhancing the perfume's vibrant opening notes. As the fragrance settles, I detect the spicy allure of carnation and the earthy depth of iris. These middle notes evoke the richness of colonial gardens, where exotic blooms and spices thrive in the fertile soil.

Opoponax weaves a resinous thread, its sweet balsamic scent hinting at distant markets filled with treasures from the East. Oak lends a woody undertone, reminiscent of the sturdy trunks that sheltered colonial estates from the tropical elements. In the base notes, vanilla unfolds like a promise of indulgence—a whisper of comfort amid the exotic adventure. Leather adds a hint of intrigue, evoking memories of finely crafted goods traded along colonial routes.

Musk and Bourbon vetiver deepen the fragrance, their primal essence stirring echoes of untamed landscapes and adventurous spirits. Oak moss and castoreum evoke the scent of forest floors and the richness of animal hides, grounding the perfume in a sense of earthy authenticity. Precious Mysore sandalwood adds a creamy texture, its smoothness recalling the touch of polished wood in opulent colonial interiors. Costus, with its musky, animalic undertones, adds a touch of intrigue, hinting at secrets whispered in the shadows of tropical nights.

As I inhale deeply, I am transported not just by the scent, but by the vivid imagery it conjures—the sights of lush plantations, the sounds of bustling markets, the taste of exotic fruits, the feel of warm breezes on my skin. Jean Patou's "Colony" is more than a fragrance; it is a sensory journey through the opulent world of French tropical colonies, captured in a bottle and ready to unfold with each exquisite note.

Bottles:

In 1937, Jean Patou unveiled "Colony," a perfume that captured the allure of distant lands and tropical nights. Housed in a Baccarat crystal flacon shaped like a pineapple, the bottle itself was a work of art. The frosted glass stopper, molded to resemble the flared leaves of a pineapple, added to its exotic charm. Vogue described "Colony" as a triumph in perfume, evoking the mystery and exoticism of Oriental places. To enhance the illusion of the East, the magazine said that the bottle featured a golden lotus as its stopper, a symbol of purity and enlightenment in Eastern cultures, but it is actually the pineapple leaves. The packaging continued the theme, with the perfume nestled in a box woven from jute and tied with a grass ribbon, echoing the natural textures and colors of tropical landscapes.

Vogue, 1937:

"Colony, Jean Patou's newest triumph in perfume, is exotic and mysterious — reminiscent of strange Oriental places and tropical nights. To carry out the illusion of the East, it is packed in a beautiful crystal flacon with a golden lotus for a stopper. The box is of woven jute tied with a grass ribbon."

The Perfumery and Essential Oil Record of 1938 highlighted the striking contrast in the packaging of Jean Patou's "Colony" perfume. Embodying a robust and adventurous spirit reminiscent of sailing vessels and distant shores, the outer box was covered in rough linen, fastened with a hemp ribbon. This rugged exterior hinted at the perfume's adventurous character, suggestive of far-flung journeys and exotic locales. Inside, however, lay the true gem: a Baccarat cut-glass flacon of baroque design. This opulent vessel, crafted with meticulous detail, housed the strong and exotic essence of "Colony." Unlike traditional fragrances of the time, which emphasized delicate floral notes, "Colony" distinguished itself with its bold, evocative composition that resonated with the spirit of exploration and discovery.

These descriptions paint a vivid picture of "Colony" by Jean Patou as more than just a perfume; it was a sensory journey to distant lands, encapsulated in a meticulously designed crystal flacon that symbolized luxury, adventure, and the allure of the exotic East.

Perfumery and Essential Oil Record, 1938:

"Contrast is the keynote in the packaging of the new Patou perfume "Colony." The box has a rough linen cover and a hemp ribbon, in keeping with the robust atmosphere imparted by the sailing vessel on the label. But inside is a Baccarat cut-glass flacon of baroque design; the perfume itself is strong and exotic rather than fragrant."

original 1937 bottle, photo by Rago Arts

c1930s-1950s flacon, photo by ebay seller assovintage.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The timeline of Jean Patou's perfume "Colony" is shrouded in mystery, marked by its discontinuation, the exact date of which remains elusive. Despite its withdrawal from active production, "Colony" continued to be available for purchase as late as 1954, suggesting a lasting appeal that endured beyond its initial introduction. This longevity speaks to the perfume's distinctive character and the enduring allure it held for loyal patrons and enthusiasts of fine fragrances.

The continued availability of "Colony" in 1954 underscores its reputation as a timeless classic within the perfume industry. Its popularity may have been sustained by its unique blend of exotic notes and luxurious packaging, which resonated with a clientele seeking sophistication and adventure in their olfactory experiences. The perfume's presence on the market well into the mid-20th century also reflects its ability to adapt to evolving tastes while retaining its core identity and appeal.

Despite the eventual discontinuation of production, "Colony" by Jean Patou remains a symbol of an era characterized by exploration, luxury, and the allure of distant lands. Its legacy continues to be celebrated among perfume aficionados and collectors, who value its historical significance and the unique sensory journey it offers. The story of "Colony" serves as a testament to the enduring impact of visionary perfumery and the lasting impression created by fragrances that transcend generations.

1984 Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 1984, Jean Patou's iconic perfume "Colony" underwent a transformation under the skilled hands of perfumer Jean Kerleo. The scent was carefully reformulated and reintroduced as part of the prestigious "Ma Collection" series, a curated revival of Patou's catalog of discontinued fragrances alongside some new editions. This relaunch marked a significant moment in the history of "Colony," bringing it back into the limelight with a renewed formulation that aimed to preserve its original essence while aligning with contemporary tastes and standards.

Jean Kerleo, renowned for his expertise in perfume composition and his tenure at the helm of the prestigious House of Patou, approached the reformulation of "Colony" with reverence and innovation. Retaining the essence of the perfume's adventurous spirit and exotic allure, Kerleo enhanced its composition to resonate with modern sensibilities while honoring its storied legacy. The reformulated "Colony" emerged as a blend of strength and sophistication, embodying the spirit of exploration and luxury that defined Jean Patou's original creation.

As part of the "Ma Collection" series, the reintroduced "Colony" found its place among discerning perfume enthusiasts and collectors who appreciated its historical significance and timeless appeal. The series itself aimed to preserve and celebrate Jean Patou's heritage, offering aficionados the opportunity to experience classic fragrances in a contemporary context. By relaunching "Colony" under this exclusive umbrella, Jean Patou ensured that its legacy would continue to captivate and inspire new generations of fragrance connoisseurs, reaffirming its status as a cornerstone of the house's illustrious perfume portfolio.

The reformulation and relaunch of "Colony" in 1984 not only revitalized its presence in the perfume market but also reaffirmed its status as a cultural icon. Through the artistry of Jean Kerleo and the visionary approach of Jean Patou's "Ma Collection," this timeless fragrance continues to evoke the allure of exotic destinations and the spirit of exploration, ensuring its place among the most cherished creations in the world of perfumery.