In the late 1920s and early 1930s, the world was teetering between the exuberance of the Roaring Twenties and the looming shadows of the Great Depression. During this time, society experienced dramatic cultural shifts. Women were becoming more independent, embracing new roles and identities, and fashion was evolving rapidly. The jazz age, flapper culture, and the burgeoning film industry all contributed to a sense of liberation and modernity. In this context, Jean Patou's perfume "Invitation," launched in 1928 in France and 1932 in the USA, was a reflection of the era's spirit.
The name "Invitation" evokes a sense of allure and mystery, suggesting an unspoken call to experience something special and enchanting. For Jean Patou, choosing the name "Invitation" for a perfume was likely an intentional decision to capture the essence of seduction and romance. The word "invitation" itself carries connotations of anticipation and desire, making it a fitting choice for a fragrance meant to entice and captivate.
A perfume named "Invitation" would indeed act as an invisible beckoning, a subtle yet powerful means of drawing attention. In an era where personal allure was accentuated by fashion and elegance, "Invitation" could be seen as a tool for women to enhance their charm and sophistication, silently inviting those around them to come closer and take notice. The scent would embody the promise of an unforgettable encounter, making it a compelling accessory for any woman seeking to make an impression.
"Invitation" would resonate with women who were confident, stylish, and attuned to the social currents of the time. These women, whether in the bustling streets of Paris or the vibrant speakeasies of New York, would respond to the perfume with a sense of empowerment and allure. The fragrance would be most popular in cosmopolitan areas where sophistication and fashion were highly valued. Cities like Paris, London, and New York, hubs of cultural and social activity, would be ideal settings for "Invitation" to thrive.
The word "Invitation" evokes images of elegant gatherings, intimate soirees, and romantic evenings. It stirs emotions of excitement, curiosity, and a yearning for connection. As a name for a perfume, "Invitation" stands out for its uniqueness and the depth of meaning it conveys. It suggests a narrative, an experience waiting to unfold, and promises more than just a pleasant scent.
The interpretation of "Invitation" would vary with context, but it would generally be seen as a call to engage, to explore, and to connect. It could be worn at moments when a woman wants to leave a lasting impression—during romantic dates, sophisticated events, or any occasion where she wishes to be remembered. The fragrance would embody the allure of the unknown and the thrill of discovery, making it a perfect choice for evening wear and special occasions.
In essence, "Invitation" by Jean Patou, created by perfumer Henri Almeras, was more than just a fragrance. It was a statement, an accessory of seduction and sophistication, capturing the essence of an era marked by transformation and the pursuit of beauty and elegance.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a dry, woodsy fragrance for women with herbal and balsamic notes layered over rose.
- Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, tangerine, mint
- Middle notes: jasmine, carnation, cinnamon, cloves thyme, rosemary, rose
- Base notes: vanilla, patchouli, Bourbon vetiver, benzoin, honey, Virginia cedar, labdanum, oakmoss, musk, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris
The New Yorker, 1932:
"Patou : Perfumes that smell particularly lovely on the skin. Men adore them on their nearest and dearest. Invitation, with lots of rose, is the latest, but nothing has beaten last year's Moment Supreme or the cocktail perfume, Dry, with us."
Harper's Bazaar, 1933:
"Coty's Fougeraie au Crepuscule, Guerlain's Vol de Nuit, Patou's Invitation, Caron's lovely En Avion. Corday's La Promesse, Molyneux's Charm, and Chanel's Ivoire — all of these perfumes have a modern and distinctive quality."
Scent Profile:
In the heart of Paris, in the late 1920s, Claire received an elegantly embossed envelope with her morning mail. As she held it, the thick, creamy paper was cool and smooth beneath her fingers, hinting at the importance of its contents. Her heart fluttered with anticipation. She opened the envelope to find an invitation to an exclusive masquerade ball hosted by a mysterious benefactor. The ball promised an evening of enchantment, opulence, and hidden identities.
As Claire prepared for her evening, she couldn't help but admire the exquisite bottle of "Invitation" by Jean Patou. The cool, smooth texture of the crystal, the sleek black Bakelite mimicking onyx, and the opulent brass clip all contributed to a sensory experience that began long before she even applied the perfume. The "Invitation" bottle, with its perfect blend of practicality, aesthetic appeal, and cultural resonance, stood as a testament to Jean Patou's commitment to quality and elegance.
The moment she opened the bottle, the air around her filled with a symphony of scents. She first caught the crisp, invigorating notes of aldehydes, mingling with the bright, citrusy zing of bergamot and tangerine. The fresh, cool whisper of mint added a touch of intrigue, making her feel alive and ready for the night ahead.
Claire carefully applied the perfume to her wrists and neck. As the top notes began to meld with her skin, the fragrance deepened, revealing a heart of floral and spicy richness. The heady, intoxicating scent of jasmine intertwined with the spicy warmth of carnation. Cinnamon and cloves added a sweet, exotic spice, while thyme and rosemary introduced a fresh, herbal complexity. The classic, romantic aroma of rose wove through these notes, grounding them in timeless elegance.
Stepping out into the night, Claire felt the cool, crisp air of Paris on her skin, carrying with it the faint scent of distant rain and the smoky aroma of burning wood from street vendors. The sounds of the city were a lively backdrop, from the soft murmur of conversations in sidewalk cafes to the distant, cheerful notes of a street musician's accordion.
Arriving at the grand ballroom, she was greeted by a vision of opulence. The room was adorned with glittering chandeliers casting a warm, golden glow, illuminating the rich, velvet draperies and opulent floral arrangements. The air was filled with a tantalizing mix of fragrances, blending with her own perfume. She could smell the sweet, resinous notes of benzoin and honey mingling with the woody undertones of Virginia cedar and Bourbon vetiver.
As the evening progressed, the deeper, more sensual base notes of her perfume began to emerge. The creamy, rich scent of vanilla intertwined with the earthy, sweet aroma of patchouli. The smoky, leathery essence of labdanum added a layer of depth, while the musky, animalic undertones of ambergris and oakmoss created an aura of mystery and allure. The luxurious, smooth scent of Mysore sandalwood and the warm, resinous sweetness of benzoin lingered in the air, leaving a lasting impression.
Throughout the night, Claire felt the soft caress of silk on her skin as she moved in her gown, the gentle clinking of crystal glasses filled with champagne, and the taste of delicate pastries, each bite a symphony of flavors – sweet, creamy, with a hint of almond. She heard the soft rustle of fabric, the lively chatter of masked guests, and the enchanting melodies played by the live orchestra.
As the night drew to a close, Claire's senses were filled with the lingering echoes of the evening's splendor. The perfume "Invitation" had woven its magic, making her feel as though she had stepped into a dream. It was a night of beauty, mystery, and unforgettable moments, all encapsulated in the alluring scent that still clung to her skin, a reminder of the enchanting invitation she had received.
Bottles:
In the heart of the Art Deco movement, Jean Patou's "Invitation" perfume bottle emerged as a beacon of sophistication and modern design. This era, defined by its bold geometric patterns, luxury materials, and technological advancements, provided the perfect backdrop for the creation of such an exquisite piece. The bottle was not merely a container but a work of art, reflecting the elegance and innovation that characterized the 1920s and 1930s.
The bottle itself was crafted from cut crystal, its geometric facets catching and refracting light in a dazzling display. This craftsmanship was a testament to the era's emphasis on precision and beauty. But it was the base of the bottle that truly anchored its design in the Art Deco tradition. The crystal bottle stood proudly on a lustrous black molded Bakelite base, which was intentionally chosen to imitate the look of black onyx, a gemstone synonymous with luxury and elegance.
Bakelite, the first synthetic plastic invented by Leo Baekeland in 1907, was a revolutionary material. By the time "Invitation" was launched, Bakelite had become celebrated for its durability, versatility, and heat-resistant properties. Its use in the perfume bottle's base not only provided a practical solution—ensuring the stability and safety of the delicate crystal above—but also positioned the perfume at the forefront of modern design trends. The sleek, polished finish of Bakelite mimicked the luxurious appearance of black onyx, creating a striking visual contrast with the clear crystal.
The brass clip holding the bottle in place added a touch of opulence, its warm golden hue enhancing the overall aesthetic. This combination of materials—crystal, Bakelite, and brass—epitomized the Art Deco style's fascination with new and luxurious materials. The raised panel on the front of the bottle, where the label was elegantly placed, drew attention to the perfume's name and brand, adding to the bottle's allure.
Jean Patou's choice of Bakelite was not merely for its practical benefits but also for its cultural significance. During the 1920s and 1930s, Bakelite was a symbol of modernity and sophistication, commonly used in high-end products, jewelry, and luxury household items. Its association with contemporary fashion and technological innovation made it a desirable material for consumers seeking products that reflected their tastes and aspirations.
The versatility of Bakelite allowed for intricate design and detailed molding, ensuring that each bottle of "Invitation" was not only a vessel for the perfume but also a statement piece. This adaptability meant that the base could be seamlessly integrated with other elements, like the brass clip, to create a cohesive and visually stunning final product.
This beautiful packaging was more than just a display; it was a promise of the sophisticated and alluring fragrance within. Each aspect of the bottle's design—down to the choice of Bakelite to imitate black onyx—was meticulously considered to enhance the overall experience, making "Invitation" not just a perfume, but a journey into the heart of Art Deco luxury and modernity.
Drug & Cosmetic Industry - Volume 33, 1933:
"JEAN PATOU PARIS Invitation - a product of Jean Patou- is packaged in an attractive cut crystal bottle .The bottle stands on a lustrous black molded base, and is held firmly in place with a brass clip. The raised panel upon which the label is placed aids to the tone."
Bakelite Corporation - Volumes 5-9, 1933:
"Quality perfumes require tasteful, appealing display. Jean Patou exhibit their Invitation perfumes in cleverly designed cut glass containers mounted on Bakelite Molded pedestals in a sleek black finish."
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c1944 bottle of Invitation, photo by Deb by LuvParfum
Fate of the Fragrance:
"Invitation" by Jean Patou, launched in the late 1920s, quickly became a symbol of refined elegance and sophisticated allure. Over the years, its popularity endured, maintaining a presence in the world of high fashion and luxury fragrances. However, like many iconic scents of its era, "Invitation" was eventually discontinued. The exact date of its discontinuation remains a mystery, shrouded in the mists of time, but it is known that the perfume was still being sold as late as 1949.
During its peak, "Invitation" was celebrated for its complex blend of notes that evoked both the vibrant energy of the Jazz Age and the timeless sophistication of classic perfumery. The perfume's top notes of aldehydes, bergamot, tangerine, and mint provided a fresh and invigorating introduction, while its heart revealed a rich floral and spicy bouquet with jasmine, carnation, cinnamon, cloves, thyme, rosemary, and rose. The base notes of vanilla, patchouli, Bourbon vetiver, benzoin, honey, Virginia cedar, labdanum, oakmoss, musk, Mysore sandalwood, and ambergris added depth and warmth, creating a dry, woodsy fragrance with herbal and balsamic nuances.
Despite its discontinuation, the legacy of "Invitation" persisted. The perfume remained available in select boutiques and perfumeries, cherished by those who appreciated its unique blend and the memories it invoked. By 1949, "Invitation" had become a treasured scent among connoisseurs, a reminder of an era defined by glamour and innovation. Its continued availability during this time attested to its lasting appeal and the high regard in which it was held.
The decision to discontinue "Invitation" might have been influenced by changing tastes and trends in the world of perfumery, as well as the evolving business strategies of Jean Patou. However, the allure of "Invitation" never truly faded. Its distinctive fragrance and exquisite packaging, with the Art Deco cut crystal bottle on a sleek black Bakelite base, ensured that it remained a coveted item long after production ceased.
For those who were fortunate enough to experience "Invitation" during its prime, the perfume represented a cherished part of their personal history. Each application of the scent was like an olfactory journey back to a time of elegance and sophistication, encapsulating the spirit of the late 1920s and the years that followed. As the years passed, bottles of "Invitation" became collector's items, prized not only for their fragrance but also for the artistry of their design.
In essence, the story of "Invitation" is one of enduring beauty and timeless appeal. Even in its absence from the market, it continues to evoke memories of a bygone era, a testament to the lasting impact of Jean Patou's vision and the artistry of perfumer Henri Almeras.
1984 Reformulation & Relaunch:
In 1984, Jean Patou resurrected the beloved "Invitation" perfume as part of the exclusive "Ma Collection," a series dedicated to reissuing classic scents from the house’s esteemed catalog of discontinued fragrances, along with a few new editions. This relaunch was a tribute to the brand’s rich heritage and a nod to the enduring allure of its historic creations. "Invitation" was meticulously reformulated, striving to capture the original’s essence while appealing to contemporary tastes and sensibilities.
The relaunch of "Invitation" in the "Ma Collection" series was met with enthusiasm from both long-time admirers and new fans. The collection was housed in elegant packaging that echoed the sophistication and artistry of the original designs, with each bottle reflecting the opulence and timeless appeal of the Jean Patou brand. The perfume's updated composition still celebrated the dry, woodsy fragrance with herbal and balsamic notes layered over a floral heart, maintaining the signature complexity that had once captivated the senses.
Available as:
- 1 oz Parfum
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However, despite its initial success, the second incarnation of "Invitation" was discontinued in the early 1990s. This brief revival left its mark, though it was a fleeting presence in the world of perfumery. The exact reasons for its second discontinuation remain speculative, possibly due to shifting market trends, changing consumer preferences, or strategic decisions within the Jean Patou brand.
In 2000, the name "Invitation" was once again trademarked by Jean Patou SA, hinting at the possibility of yet another revival. However, despite this official registration, the perfume was never reissued. This decision left enthusiasts and collectors wondering about the potential of another opportunity to experience the enchanting fragrance that had charmed so many over the decades.
The legacy of "Invitation" thus stands as a poignant reminder of Jean Patou's dedication to quality and innovation. The scent, with its complex blend of top notes including aldehydes, bergamot, tangerine, and mint, middle notes of jasmine, carnation, cinnamon, cloves, thyme, rosemary, and rose, and base notes of vanilla, patchouli, Bourbon vetiver, benzoin, honey, Virginia cedar, labdanum, oakmoss,
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