Patou is Seeking to Find Milady's Perfect Perfumes

Mount Carmel Item, 19 Nov 1924, Wed, Page 2:

"The woman who uses perfume subtly and with restraint, who has found the one odor that blends perfectly with her skin and her particular bodily chemistry, has the most potent weapon of the charmer. She has matched with nature an won."

So says Monsieur Jean Patou, the celebrated French designer, who has maintained a research department for two years in Paris which does nothing but experiment with perfumes.

He is trying to find the perfect perfume that will form the last finishing touch to his perfect sartorial creations.

But he admits candidly that he hasn't found it. And further, he says not one woman in a thousand knows how to use perfume.

Among those who do not know how to use perfume is the woman who reserves a bottle of scent on a handkerchief, and the one who aims an atomizer at herself after completely gowned and calls herself perfumed.

"Perfume," he explains, "reacts differently on different skins. The odor that is right for indoors may lose its potency in the air. Perfume fascinating for the blond may put the brunette quite out of the running."

And where should you use perfume - why behind your ears or ever so slightly on the hair!

He suggests women try all odors until they find the one that is just right.

Patou Forever - Coffret l'Orgue du Parfumeur c1997

The Patou Forever Coffret L'Orgue du Parfumeur, released in 1997, is a charming and innovative miniature perfume presentation that echoes Jean Patou's heritage of playful sophistication. This set is designed to look like a tiny version of the Perfumer's Organ, a tool used by perfumers to blend and create fragrances. This quirky nod to Jean Patou's "Bar a Parfums" set from the 1920s not only celebrates the brand's history but also invites users to engage in the art of perfumery.

The coffret includes a 5ml bottle of Patou Forever Eau de Parfum, a scent that embodies timeless elegance and modern flair. Alongside this, the set features three raw material essences: a 2ml vial of Absolue Jasmin, a 2ml vial of Absolue Rose, and a 2ml vial of Base Fruitee. These essences allow users to customize their perfume experience by adding these individual notes to the main fragrance, tailoring it to their personal preferences.

To facilitate this process, the coffret also includes several mouillettes, or smelling strips. These are essential tools in the world of perfumery, enabling users to test the scent combinations before applying them. The inclusion of these strips emphasizes the interactive and creative nature of the set, inviting users to explore and experiment like a true perfumer.

The design and contents of the Coffret L'Orgue du Parfumeur encapsulate the essence of Jean Patou's philosophy: a blend of luxury, creativity, and personalization. This set is not only a beautiful collector's item but also a delightful experience for those who appreciate the art of fragrance.

Adieu Sagesse by Jean Patou c2014

Adieu Sagesse by Jean Patou: launched in 2014 and created by Thomas Fontaine as part of the Heritage Collection . This is the reformulated fragrance Adieu Sagesse originally launched by Jean Patou in 1925.

L’Heure Attendue by Jean Patou c2014

L’Heure Attendue by Jean Patou: launched in 2014 and created by Thomas Fontaine as part of the Heritage Collection. This is the reformulated fragrance L’Heure Attendue originally launched by Jean Patou in 1946.

From Jean Patou:

L’HEURE ATTENDUE A momentous and liberating fragrance created to commemorates that long awaited moment – The Liberation.  The mists have blown away, night is no more and the sun has risen again.  L’Heure Attendue bears witness to this rediscovered freedom. 

A woody spicy oriental fragrance  – a heartening and subtle fragrance which resonates a refined peaceful aroma, synonymous with a new mellowness of life.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woody spicy oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes:
• Middle notes: spices
• Base notes: woodsy notes

Fate of the Fragrance:

Unfortunately as of 2023, Jean Patou's fragrances are no longer in production. However, you can still find your favourite Jean Patou perfumes in select authorized outlets around the world.

Chaldée by Jean Patou c2014

Chaldée by Jean Patou: launched in 2014 and created by Thomas Fontaine as part of the Heritage Collection. This is the reformulated fragrance Amour Amour originally launched by Jean Patou in 1927.

Patou Pour Homme by Jean Patou c2014

Patou Pour Homme by Jean Patou: launched in 2014 and created by Thomas Fontaine as part of the Heritage Collection. This is the reformulated fragrance Patou Pour Homme originally launched by Jean Patou in 1980.

Eau de Patou by Jean Patou c2014

Eau de Patou by Jean Patou: launched in 2014 and created by Thomas Fontaine as part of the Heritage Collection. This is the reformulated fragrance Eau de Patou originally launched by Jean Patou in 1976.

Colony by Jean Patou c2014

Colony by Jean Patou: launched in 2014 and created by Thomas Fontaine as part of the Heritage Collection. This is the reformulated fragrance Colony originally launched by Jean Patou in 1938.

Vacances by Jean Patou c2014

Vacances by Jean Patou: launched in 2014 and created by Thomas Fontaine as part of the Heritage Collection. This is the reformulated fragrance Vacances originally launched by Jean Patou in 1936.

Que Sais Je? by Jean Patou c2014

Que Sais Je? by Jean Patou: launched in 2014 and created by Thomas Fontaine as part of the Heritage Collection. This is the reformulated fragrance Que Sais Je?  originally launched by Jean Patou in 1925.

Cocktail Bar a Parfums by Jean Patou c1928

In the late 1920s and early 1930s, cocktail bars emerged as cultural icons, embodying the spirit of the Jazz Age. This era, characterized by its roaring nightlife and sense of modernity, saw the cocktail bar as a central social hub where people gathered to enjoy innovative and stylish beverages. The atmosphere of these bars was glamorous and lively, appealing to the growing middle and upper classes who sought sophistication and new forms of entertainment. 

In 1928, Jean Patou, ever the innovator, introduced a unique and charming feature to his Parisian showrooms: a cocktail bar. This was not merely a place to serve drinks but a strategic and thoughtful addition designed to enhance the shopping experience for both his clients and their companions. The bar was specifically intended to entertain and quench the thirsts of husbands and other men who often found themselves accompanying women during the sometimes lengthy and tedious process of fittings and fashion consultations.

In the luxurious fitting rooms of the popular Parisian couturier Jean Patou, an unusual invitation might have been heard: "Madame, while we are making this little alteration in your frock, won't you step down to the bar and take a cocktail?" This innovative concept, a cocktail bar complete with a polished counter, cozy seats, glistening bottles, and a white-coated bartender with an easy smile, became a significant hit among Patou's fashionable customers. The bar served as a delightful distraction from the tiresome delays of fittings and alterations, the indecision over which model to choose, and the doubts about prices and whether to splurge on one more dress. The affable barman, always sympathetic and helpful, added to the experience.

Interestingly, this bar was designed specifically for women. Originally, Jean Patou explained,"This is not a bar for men. I have installed this accommodation for women. Husbands and boyfriends can do their drinking around the corner. I want this to be a haven of rest and reflection for my clients." Patou believed that women appreciate a good cocktail as much as they do a good frock, and found that one stimulated them quite as much as the other. His three-piece cocktail, consisted of gin, Bacardi rum, and a secret ingredient, was particularly popular among his clients. While men were not barred from the salon, they were not particularly encouraged to stay, as the space was intended for women to think about fashion without the distraction of dressmaking bills.

The conversation at Patou's bar was unlike any typical bar setting. Politics, sports, and last night's party were replaced with discussions about dresses. Women exchanged phrases like "Have you seen this one?" rather than "Have you heard this one?" It was a space where only those who understood and appreciated tucks, ruffles, and hemlines would have felt at home.

Psychologists among the Paris dressmakers had long understood that keeping a customer's mind off the bill could ease the sales process. This insight led to the introduction of tea-dances and mannequin parades in the dress-making salons. Jean Patou's cocktail bar was a modern and most elegant evolution of this concept. The skill of his bartender in mixing drinks like "sidecars" and "rose" cocktails had even started to attract a clientele that might be tempted to buy a dress on the side, akin to a "chaser."

Patou’s showroom cocktail bar was a masterstroke in customer service and marketing. It transformed what could have been a dull and tiresome wait into a pleasant and enjoyable experience. Originally meant exclusively for women to enjoy, Jean Patou's cocktail bar eventually evolved to accommodate men who accompanied their ladies. Despite Patou's initial intention to create a haven exclusively for women to relax and reflect away from the pressures of dressmaking decisions, the appeal and convivial atmosphere of the cocktail bar extended its allure to both genders. The men, who might otherwise grow impatient or bored, were now engaged and entertained, making them more likely to view the shopping trip favorably and support the purchasing decisions of their wives or partners. This clever addition fostered a relaxed and convivial atmosphere, making the entire process more appealing and luxurious.

Eau de Patou by Jean Patou c1976

Eau de Patou by Jean Patou: launched in 1976 and created by Jean Kerleo.

Sublime by Jean Patou c1992

In 1992, when Jean Patou's "Sublime" was launched, the world was experiencing significant cultural and social shifts. The early '90s marked the end of the Cold War, and there was a sense of optimism and new beginnings. The fashion and beauty industries were evolving, embracing boldness, glamour, and a return to elegance after the extravagance of the 1980s. Women were increasingly confident, independent, and expressive, seeking to reflect these qualities in their choice of fragrance.

"Sublime," created by Jean Kerléo, refers to something of such excellence, grandeur, or beauty that it inspires great admiration or awe. Jean Patou likely chose the name "Sublime" to evoke a sense of supreme elegance and transcendent beauty. It implies a fragrance that is not just pleasant or attractive, but one that elevates the wearer to an almost ethereal level of sophistication and charm. The name "Sublime" suggests a scent that is beyond ordinary, something magnificent and awe-inspiring.

"Sublime" makes an excellent name for a perfume because it captures the essence of what many people seek in a fragrance: a touch of the extraordinary, a hint of the divine. It speaks to the desire for an exceptional sensory experience that enhances one's presence and leaves a lasting impression. The name itself conjures images of something elevated and supreme, aligning perfectly with the aspirations of those who wear it.

A perfume called "Sublime" would resonate with women who view themselves as radiant and confident, or who aspire to embody these qualities. These women would likely be drawn to the idea of a fragrance that enhances their inherent elegance and allure. They would respond to "Sublime" with admiration, feeling that the perfume complements their sense of style and presence, adding a layer of sophistication and allure to their persona.

This type of perfume would be most popular in cosmopolitan cities around the world, where fashion and elegance are highly valued. Places like Paris, New York, Milan, and Tokyo, where there is a deep appreciation for luxury and high-end beauty products, would likely see a strong affinity for "Sublime."

The word "Sublime" evokes images of breathtaking beauty and grandeur, such as a stunning sunset, a majestic mountain range, or a work of art that moves the soul. It brings forth emotions of awe, admiration, and inspiration. The term suggests an experience that transcends the ordinary, reaching into the realm of the extraordinary and the magnificent.

While the name "Sublime" is unique, it is not out of touch for the time period. The early '90s saw a resurgence of classic elegance and a desire for timeless beauty. A name like "Sublime" fits perfectly within this context, offering a sense of sophistication and timeless appeal that would attract those looking for something truly exceptional in their fragrance choice. Jean Patou's "Sublime," created by Jean Kerléo, captured this essence, presenting a perfume that promised to elevate the wearer's experience to something truly sublime.

Voyageur by Jean Patou c1995

Voyageur by Jean Patou: launched in 1995, created by Jean Kerleo. .

Patou Pour Homme by Jean Patou c1980

Patou Pour Homme by Jean Patou: launched in 1980, created by Jean Kerleo.