Moment Supreme by Jean Patou c1929

In the context of the 1920s, the launch of Jean Patou's perfume "Moment Supreme" carries intriguing connotations related to sensuality and cultural attitudes towards lovemaking. In France, the term "Moment Supreme" was often used euphemistically to refer to "Le Petit Mort," which translates to "the little death" and symbolizes orgasm. This usage reflects a cultural fascination with pleasure and indulgence during the interwar period, characterized by the liberation of social norms and the embrace of hedonistic pursuits.

Jean Patou's choice of the name "Moment Supreme" for his perfume is therefore layered with symbolic meaning. By evoking a moment of ultimate pleasure and transcendence, the name suggests a sensory experience that is both fleeting and profound, akin to the climax of intimate connection. This makes "Moment Supreme" a fitting name for a perfume, as it promises to capture and embody a moment of heightened emotion, luxury, and refinement.

Those drawn to a perfume named "Moment Supreme" would likely be individuals who appreciate sophistication, elegance, and the finer pleasures in life. They would respond to the perfume with a desire to indulge in its luxurious aura, seeking to enhance their own moments of personal allure and sensuality. The fragrance would resonate particularly well in cosmopolitan centers like Paris, London, and New York, where a sophisticated clientele values both tradition and innovation in perfume craftsmanship.

The word "Moment Supreme" evokes images of decadence, passion, and intimacy, conjuring scenes of romantic evenings, opulent settings, and the allure of timeless elegance. Emotionally, it suggests a sense of anticipation and fulfillment, capturing the essence of a fleeting yet unforgettable experience.

As a name for a perfume, "Moment Supreme" is indeed unique, standing out from more conventional floral or abstract titles commonly used in the perfume industry. Its interpretation varies, offering a sophisticated audience an intriguing glimpse into the perfume's promise of exquisite pleasure and refined indulgence.

English-speaking women would likely grasp the underlying euphemism of "Moment Supreme," especially those familiar with French cultural references or intrigued by the perfume's historical context. While the direct translation may not immediately resonate with everyone, the allure of the name and its implied meaning would appeal to those seeking a fragrance that embodies sophistication and sensuality.

This perfume would be most fitting for evening wear or special occasions when one wishes to evoke an aura of elegance and allure. Whether attending a gala, a romantic rendezvous, or simply seeking to enhance personal moments of indulgence, "Moment Supreme" by Jean Patou, created by Henri Almeras and launched in 1929, remains a timeless ode to the pursuit of pleasure and the artistry of fragrance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women with dominant notes of jasmine, light lavender and spice.  It begins with a fresh top note, followed by a classic floral heart, a subtly spicy aroma resting on a warm, sensual, balsamic, mossy base. 

• Top notes: aldehydes, peach, bergamot, lemon, neroli, mandarin, orange, lavender
• Middle notes: wallflower, Grasse geranium, rose de mai, ylang ylang, lilac, jonquil, orris, carnation, clove, clover trefoil, Grasse jasmine, and Bulgarian rose
• Base notes: amber, vanilla, Mysore sandalwood, musk, honey, heliotrope, civet, oakmoss, benzoin, tonka bean

It made use of a perfume base by Givaudan called Melittis which was composed of salicylates, coumarin, and eugenol.

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Moment Supreme by Patou: subtle. Dominant note: chypre. For brunettes."

L'Atlantique, 1952:

"Patou likewise has a new handbag flask, known as 'The Companion,' a little flask made like rings with a gilded stopper and leather container which laces up the side. All the Patou perfumes: 'Joy', 'Moment Supreme,' and 'L'Heure Attendue' can be carried this way."

Bottles:

The bottle design chosen for Jean Patou's "Moment Supreme" Parfum reflects the luxury and elegance associated with the perfume itself. Crafted from crystal, the bottle takes on a distinctive shape, roughly triangular with rounded corners. This geometric form lends it a modern yet sophisticated appearance, characteristic of the Art Deco aesthetic prevalent during the late 1920s and early 1930s.

The crystal material not only enhances the visual appeal but also adds a sense of weight and quality to the perfume's presentation. It suggests a preciousness and delicacy that aligns perfectly with the high-end nature of Jean Patou's creations.

The stopper of the bottle is another notable feature, made from ground glass in a lobed shape. This design choice adds to the tactile and visual allure of the packaging, offering a tactile experience when handling the bottle and a pleasing aesthetic when displayed.

Adorning the front of the bottle is a paper label, carefully applied to complement the crystal's transparency without detracting from its elegance. This label serves both a functional and decorative purpose, providing essential information about the perfume while contributing to the overall aesthetic harmony of the packaging.

Together, the crystal bottle with its triangular shape, rounded corners, and lobed glass stopper, adorned with a paper label, creates a harmonious blend of luxury, craftsmanship, and visual appeal. It exemplifies the attention to detail and the commitment to elegance that Jean Patou sought to convey through his perfumes, making "Moment Supreme" not only a fragrance experience but also a work of art in its presentation.

Parfum-Cologne:

The parfum-Cologne version of L'Heure Attendue was presented in a distinctive and modified "borne" flacon, reminiscent of a boundary stone bottle. This design choice added a touch of historical charm and architectural elegance to the packaging, aligning with Jean Patou's penchant for marrying fragrance with artistry. The bottle itself stood tall and stately, resembling a column that exuded a sense of strength and solidity, much like the resilience of spirit during challenging times.

Adorning the top of the bottle was either a lobed glass stopper or a bakelite cap, depending on the variant. The stopper or cap provided a functional yet aesthetically pleasing closure, ensuring the precious contents within remained secure and preserved. The choice of materials and design elements reflected a blend of classic sophistication and modern practicality, appealing to those who appreciated both timeless elegance and functional beauty in their perfume choices.

The overall presentation of the parfum-Cologne in the modified "borne" flacon was a testament to Jean Patou's commitment to excellence in both fragrance composition and packaging design. It offered a unique visual and tactile experience, inviting the user to indulge in a scent that not only captured the essence of L'Heure Attendue but also celebrated the artistry and craftsmanship inherent in every aspect of Jean Patou's creations.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The original version of Jean Patou's "Moment Supreme" remained discontinued for a significant number of years, leaving a gap in the olfactory landscape that enthusiasts and collectors keenly felt. Launched in 1929 amidst the opulence and sophistication of the interwar period, this perfume embodied a moment of luxury and elegance. Its discontinuation meant that its unique blend of notes and its distinctive character became a nostalgic memory for those who cherished its sophisticated allure. Over the years, the absence of the original "Moment Supreme" created a sense of longing among perfume aficionados who appreciated its craftsmanship and the sensory experience it evoked.

1968 Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 1968, Jean Patou's iconic fragrance "Moment Supreme" underwent a transformation with a reformulation that incorporated modern ingredients, reintroducing it to a new generation of perfume enthusiasts. This relaunch brought forth a refreshed version of the classic scent, offering both an eau de toilette and the renowned parfum. The packaging was redesigned to reflect contemporary tastes, featuring bottles crafted from polished glass. These containers were not only stylish but also practical, designed with screw-on caps to ensure leak-proof portability.

The fragrance itself maintained the essence of its predecessor while incorporating modern notes to appeal to evolving preferences. Lavender, jasmine, mimosa, and oakmoss were among the rare ingredients woven together to create a complex bouquet that exuded sophistication and longevity. This blend of floral and woody notes gave "Moment Supreme" a distinctive and enduring character, suitable for both day and evening wear.

Despite its relaunch and initial popularity, this edition of "Moment Supreme" was eventually discontinued, adding to its mystique and desirability among collectors. Its brief reappearance allowed for a renewed appreciation of its timeless allure, yet its discontinuation left fans longing for the return of its unique blend and elegant presentation. The reformulated "Moment Supreme" of 1968 thus remains a cherished chapter in the perfume's history, celebrated for its craftsmanship, complex fragrance profile, and enduring appeal.

1984 Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 1984, Jean Patou reintroduced "Moment Supreme" as part of the prestigious "Ma Collection," a revival of their most beloved perfumes from the past. This collection aimed to celebrate the heritage and enduring appeal of Patou's iconic fragrances, including classics like Cocktail, Divine Folie, Normandie, Amour Amour, Adieu Sagesse, L'Heure Attendue, Caline, Colony, Chaldee, and Que Sais Je. Each perfume in the collection was meticulously curated to evoke nostalgia while embracing contemporary tastes.

The relaunch of "Moment Supreme" in 1984 marked a significant milestone, overseen by master perfumer Jean Kerleo. While some fragrances in the collection retained their original formulas, others, including "Moment Supreme," underwent reformulation. This adaptation was necessary due to challenges in sourcing all the original ingredients, a common issue faced during the 1980s when certain raw materials were less accessible or had stricter regulatory constraints.

Under Jean Kerleo's guidance, the 1984 version of "Moment Supreme" retained the essence of its predecessor while incorporating modern interpretations of its signature notes. The reformulated fragrance was available not only as a parfum but also as an eau de toilette, a format that was nonexistent when the perfume was first launched 50 years earlier. This expansion into different concentrations allowed for a broader appeal, catering to varying preferences for intensity and longevity in fragrance wear.

Despite the adjustments made to ensure compliance with contemporary standards and availability of ingredients, the relaunched "Moment Supreme" maintained its reputation for elegance, sophistication, and a timeless allure. It continued to captivate perfume enthusiasts who appreciated its rich history and the artistry behind its composition, ensuring its place among the enduring classics in the world of haute perfumery.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an ambery floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, geranium, lavender 
• Middle notes: clove, carnation, jasmine, rose, orris
• Base notes: vanilla, amber, musk, oakmoss, tonka bean, labdanum, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood

Scent Profile:

"Moment Supreme" by Jean Patou, classified as an ambery floral oriental fragrance for women, presents a captivating olfactory journey through its meticulously balanced composition. Launched initially in 1929 and later reformulated, this fragrance continues to enchant with its timeless appeal and sophisticated blend of notes.

At the top, "Moment Supreme" opens with a refreshing burst of bergamot, lending a citrusy brightness that immediately captivates the senses. This vibrant introduction is complemented by the aromatic nuances of geranium and the soothing warmth of lavender, setting a luxurious tone right from the start.

Moving into the heart of the fragrance, a rich bouquet unfolds with intricate layers of clove, jasmine, and rose. These floral notes intertwine gracefully, offering a delicate yet deeply aromatic profile that evokes images of blooming gardens and romantic evenings.

As "Moment Supreme" reaches its base notes, it reveals a sensual and comforting foundation. Amber takes center stage, enveloping the wearer in its warm, resinous embrace. Spices add a hint of exotic allure, enhancing the fragrance with a subtle complexity and depth that lingers on the skin, leaving a lasting impression.

Overall, "Moment Supreme" is a testament to Jean Patou's commitment to crafting perfumes that transcend time and trends. Its ambery floral oriental classification underscores its elegance and sophistication, making it a cherished choice for women who appreciate fine craftsmanship and desire a fragrance that exudes timeless allure and refined femininity.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The 1984 version of "Moment Supreme" by Jean Patou, despite its relaunch and popularity among perfume enthusiasts, was discontinued sometime in the mid-1990s. This decision marked the end of an era for a fragrance that had been reintroduced to evoke nostalgia and celebrate the brand's legacy. While the official production ceased, vintage bottles from this period can still be found circulating in the secondary market, cherished by collectors and aficionados alike.

However, among perfume connoisseurs, the most coveted version remains the original 1929 formulation, created by the esteemed perfumer Henri Almeras. Known for its rich and opulent notes, the 1929 "Moment Supreme" captures the essence of a bygone era, blending intricate layers of floral, citrus, and oriental elements into a fragrance that epitomizes luxury and sophistication. Its rarity and historical significance elevate its desirability, making it a prized possession for those who appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship of classic perfumery.